"I would buy clothes several times a week, and every day during sales, but I still felt like I had nothing to wear every morning," says 30-year-old Lee So-yeon from South Korea, who now opposes buying clothes.
Li previously felt the need to wear a new outfit every time she went out with friends or on a date.
“I was spending hundreds of dollars a month without any problem,” Lee admits.
This recovered shopaholic, as she calls herself, says her urge to shop was further fueled by the fact that the clothes were cheap enough that she thought she could change them often, as well as the pressure to constantly post new photos of her outfits on the social network Instagram.
It wasn't until she came across a winter coat at a store that was selling for just $1,5 that she began to question her spending habits and the fast fashion industry.
It was made in Bangladesh and cost less than a cup of coffee.
"I realized something was seriously wrong.
"That price did not reflect the true value, and someone, somewhere, was actually paying that price."
"That deeply disturbed me," says Li.
She began researching the fashion industry, and says she was shocked to learn things she had never questioned before.
"I thought I cared about the environment, but I was blind to the hidden consequences of the fashion industry."
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Fast fashion refers to ultra-cheap clothing that is designed to be worn only briefly, and discarded as soon as a new fashion trend emerges.
The rise of online fast fashion stores, such as China's Shein and Temu, has reshaped the global fashion industry, but these companies are often the target of criticism for their negative environmental impact and questionable working conditions in the production chain.
The BBC reported in 2024 that the average price of a garment on the Shiinu platform is just $10,71 and that the site offers around 600.000 different products.
According to data from the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the fashion and textile industry is among the sectors that pollute the environment the most.
This industry is responsible for up to eight percent of global greenhouse gas emissions and as much as nine percent of microplastic pollution that ends up in the oceans each year.
Also, more than 80 percent of clothing in the world ends up as waste, in landfills or incinerators, according to data from the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe.
More than 80 percent of clothing in the world ends up as waste, in landfills or incinerators, according to data from the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe.
Lee, who lives in Seoul, is currently writing a book about consumer habits in South Korea, which is among the top ten largest exporters of second-hand clothing in the world.
It's been seven years since Lee stopped buying clothes.
Although she is aware that she alone cannot change the entire industry, she says that consumers can still do a lot.
For BBC 100 Women, Lee revealed four tips for creating a sustainable wardrobe.
1. Shop according to your lifestyle
"Most of us buy on impulse because the prices are so low," says Lee, emphasizing the importance of a thoughtful approach to shopping.
He suggests analyzing your spending habits and aligning your purchases with your actual needs.
"I was buying flashy pink dresses that had nothing to do with my everyday life."
"I worked in an office five days a week."
She says it was only when she started analyzing her shopping habits that she was able to make "more conscious and meaningful choices," she says.
2. Shop from your own closet first
Li has second-hand clothes in her closet, including her mother's jacket from the 1980s, as well as shirts that are more than 10 years old.
"I started going through my closet, pulling out things I hadn't worn in months or years, and making new combinations out of old pieces," says Lee.
He particularly emphasizes that sustainability does not just mean buying environmentally friendly fashion brands.
“The most sustainable solution is to use the wardrobe you already have,” she says.
If the average number of times a garment is worn were doubled, greenhouse gas emissions from the fashion industry could be reduced by 44 percent, according to a study by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which advocates for an accelerated transition to a circular economy.
In countries with two seasons, 74 pieces of clothing are "enough", and 84 items of clothing in countries with four seasons, according to a report published in 2022 by a Berlin-based think tank. Hot or Cool Institute.
"Instead of constantly chasing the latest trends, I began to realize that true style is the skill of making the best of what I already have, in a creative and thoughtful way."
“Today, for me, real style is no longer about the number of clothes I have, but about expressing myself with the pieces I already own,” says Lee.
3. Swap and share clothes
Instead of buying new clothes, Lee organizes wardrobe swaps with friends and family members.
It also highlights the cultural value of clothing.
“It's not just clothes, because every piece has a story and creates a new connection between people,” she says.
The global market for second-hand clothing has grown sevenfold in the last four decades, according to data from the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe.
4. Repair, don't throw away
Lee says she sews on buttons and mends worn-out clothes herself.
"I know it's much easier to buy something new, but these little fixes have changed the way I look at my wardrobe."
"I started to see the effort that went into each piece and to take the time to improve the wardrobe I had."
"A little creativity can really make a big difference."
Clothing repairs can have a big impact on the need to buy new items.
Charity organization Wrap, which deals with sustainable fashion, published data this year that for every five repairs to existing clothing, an average of four new items are avoided.
Some countries even encourage repairs.
For example, in 2016, Sweden introduced a reduced value added tax (VAT) for minor repairs to bicycles, shoes, and clothing.
However, the low prices of fast fashion pose a "big challenge" for activists like Lee So-yeon.
"Even now, even though I haven't bought a new piece in seven years, sometimes I feel like getting something, because there are so many cheap and beautiful things everywhere."
"This persistent urge reminds me how deeply capitalism and advertising are woven into our everyday lives."
Lee admits that he can't guarantee that he'll never buy anything new again, but he believes he's on the right track.
"Giving up on shopping is not just a sacrifice for our planet."
"It's a way to rediscover joy, creativity and confidence."
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