During the two years of war in Gaza, all public Christmas celebrations were canceled in Bethlehem, in the occupied West Bank, where Christians believe Jesus was born.
Following the recent ceasefire agreement, the holy city decided that the celebration would take place this year, symbolically heralding it by lighting the traditional giant Christmas tree in front of the Church of the Nativity.
"Two bad years of silence: no Christmas, no jobs, no work," says Maher Kanawati, the mayor of Bethlehem.
"We live off tourism and there was no tourism," he adds.
The mayor acknowledges that the return of Christmas celebrations has been accompanied by some controversy, as people in Gaza continue to suffer, including the small Christian community, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.
"Some might say it's not polite, others will say it is," Kanavati tells me.
"But deep down I feel this is the right thing to do because Christmas should never be stopped or canceled. This is a glimmer of hope for us."
Locals, both Christians and Muslims, stop to take photos in front of a Christmas tree decorated with red and gold baubles. They are joined by a few foreign tourists.
Colorful lights decorate the streets and advertisements for Christmas bazaars and children's parties can be seen.
"We are happy to have a Christmas tree, for starters, to see strangers in Bethlehem, and to be able to celebrate Christmas the right way," says Nadja Hazboun, a Bethlehem-based jewelry designer.
"This is where it all started, and from here we can send a message to the world about what Christmas should really be. This year, if Christmas is peaceful, I hope it will send a beautiful message to the world."
Hotels, which have been mostly empty for the past two years, are expecting Palestinians from Israel and foreign visitors this year.
Angelika, a tourist from Russia, is on her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land.
"I think everyone should come at least once in their life," he tells me.
"I hope a lot of people will come back, because it's sad without tourists. The only good thing is that there are no long lines, you can visit more places. When I came before, you had to wait in line for at least a few hours."
Souvenir shops scattered around Bethlehem are mostly empty, and tour guides stand idle in front of the Church of the Nativity, which dates back to the fourth century.
Before the war in Gaza, there were a lot of people in this place.
Guide Hamza is worried because he thinks that media coverage is making people believe that the situation is still dangerous.
He thinks it's safe.
"This is a tourist town, without tourism there is no life," Hamza complains.
"We hope that people will come to us as before: from Europe, from the Middle East, from America. We started by lighting the lights on the Christmas tree and now we are waiting," he says.
In the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem.
Since the Hamas attack in October 2023, which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been banned from entering Israel and its settlements to work.
The Palestinian Authority (PA), which governs the West Bank, has meanwhile only paid half salaries to civil service employees.
The PA relies on tax revenues collected by Israel, which Israeli authorities withhold in the amount of $1,76 billion, according to the United Nations Trade and Development Agency.
Israel says it is withholding this amount because the PA pays money to Palestinian prisoners, which incites attacks on Israelis.
The difficult economic situation means that for many Palestinian Christians this will be a modest Christmas.
On the edge of Manger Square, several people are waiting to buy falafel.
"We are preparing for Christmas after one of the most difficult periods for Palestinians and Christians," said Alaa Salameh, owner of a family restaurant, whose income has dropped significantly.
He says that until recently, many families couldn't even afford falafel, a cheap, traditional dish.
"Christians will try to celebrate, but in accordance with the situation," says Salameh.
"Someone who wants to take their kids to a festival or the theater or anywhere doesn't have the money to spend on a celebration like that."
In a cave-like passageway at the foot of the Church of the Nativity, a local woman follows a small group of Indian tourists, bending down beside a silver star marking the place where Jesus is believed to have been born, and lighting a candle nearby.
While tensions remain high across the region, people in Bethlehem say they are praying for peace and hope tourists will return to the place where Christmas is believed to have originated.
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