Karni Šarp i Lara Oven, BBC program Global Women
"When I apply eyeliner in my Brooklyn apartment, far from home, I feel like I'm connecting with my mother, my grandmother and women across the Middle East," journalist Zahra Hankir tells the BBC's Global Women program.
Last December, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recognized the significance of Arabic eye black, known as kajal (kohl), by including it on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The tradition of kajal, a dark pigment applied around the eyes of both women and men, dates back thousands of years and has roots in ancient civilizations.
Traditionally it is made from antimony, lead or other minerals, while modern eyeliner products have other ingredients.
This beauty product is special to British-Lebanese writer Hankir, whose family moved to England from Lebanon fleeing the civil war in 1975.
"I watched my mother put on makeup when we lived far away," she says.
"I had a feeling it was connecting to something very deep."
She says she feels the same connection when she applies eyeliner.
Hankir, author of "Eyeliner: A Cultural History," says UNESCO's recognition defines kajal "not as a trend or a product, but as a living cultural practice that deserves to be preserved."
"This type of recognition helps to protect the knowledge, customs and crafts associated with making and wearing kajal, ensuring that they are recorded and valued and passed on to future generations."
"This prevents them from losing relevance or disappearing in the globalized commercial beauty culture," she explains.
The conversation about the history and symbolism of kajal began when she brought out a small jar of makeup during dinner with an Iranian friend, which inspired her to delve deeper into the past and wider use of eyeliner.
"It was an understanding that kajal has quite a deep meaning for women, especially those living in minority communities and in the diaspora," she says.
'More than beauty'
The roots of eyeliner can be traced back to ancient civilizations in Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Persia.
In ancient Egypt, everyone wore it, regardless of gender or social status, says Hankir.
"It was worn not only for beauty, but for many other reasons," she says, explaining that this eye black also had a spiritual role and served to protect the eyes from disease.
"The ancient Egyptians buried their eyeliner pots with their bodies to take with them to the afterlife, which shows how important it was to them."
Egyptian Queen Nefertiti was probably the first "influencer" for eyeliner, says Hankir.
The famous bust of Nefertiti, found in Egypt in 1912 by a German archaeological team led by Ludwig Borchardt, clearly demonstrates the use of kajal as eyeliner.
"Her eyebrows are rounded, perfectly shaped, and filled in with a smoky black color, probably kajal."
"The contrast of colors is strong, but the queen's overall appearance is impeccable," Hankir writes in her book.
Women in Germany tried to emulate her "exotic" look by applying kajal and associated it with beauty, authority and empowerment, says Hankir.
Nefertiti makeup is still trendy today.
"There are hundreds of tutorials on YouTube, TikTok and Instagram for fairly accurate imitations of the Queen's face," Hankir writes.
From kajal to eyeliner
Research into the origins of eyeliner has taken Hankir to various parts of the world – from the Indian state of Kerala, through Chad, Mexico, Jordan, and all the way to Japan.
During her travels, she discovered that, although eyeliner is used all over the world, there are differences in how it is applied and its meaning, but that the common thread is its protective role.
It was used for various purposes - from protection from the sun and the "evil eye", to religious rituals and medicinal purposes.
In Japan, she spoke with a geisha, a traditional Japanese entertainer, who wore red eyeliner, a symbol of protection against evil spirits that has survived to this day.
In Mexican-American chola culture, eyeliner is a powerful symbol of identity, resistance and cultural pride, she says.
And just like in ancient Egypt, Hankir noticed that in some parts of the world, eyeliner isn't just for women.
In Chad, she spent some time with the Wadabi, who belong to the nomadic Fulani ethnic group, known for their annual beauty contest in which women judge men based on their appearance.
"The Bedouins in Petra, Jordan, wear eyeliner not just for sun protection or to express their religious beliefs, but because they know they look beautiful that way," laughs Hankir.
"It is also part of the rite when a boy becomes a man, as well as a sign that a man is unmarried."
Eyeliner is often applied to children, as it is believed to provide protection.
In fact, in Arabic-speaking countries, common names are Kajal and Kahilain, reflecting the cultural significance of eyeliner.
Hankir says UNESCO should have recognized kajal as an intangible cultural heritage long ago, and given "recognition to communities in the Global South, especially those in the Arab world, who have preserved and maintained this tradition for centuries, despite being frequently displaced and facing problems of colonialism and the erasure of cultural identity."
The act of applying kajal is so important to this writer precisely because of its connection to her culture.
"The application is almost a spiritual act, something like a ritual."
"It's not just about lining your waterline or upper lid—you're connecting to so much more," she concludes.
Watch a video about Thanaki - the ancient beauty of Myanmar
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