With the reintroduction of low-cost flights from Podgorica and Tivat this spring, Krakow has emerged as the perfect destination if you want to embark on a journey that combines romance, history, art, aesthetics, gourmet food and the charms of enjoying nature, all for a budget that will not devastate the pockets of the average citizen. For the uninitiated, Poland may not seem as attractive to tourists as some other destinations at first glance, but – ah, what a mistake it would be to bypass the former capital of this proud country, a city on the Vistula River in the very center of Europe, located between the powers of East and West, at a commercial and cultural hub, a city of numerous museums and galleries, UNESCO heritage, a rich past, calming parks, cafes with a unique atmosphere and fantastic cuisine.
Krakow is especially attractive in spring and summer, when the local gardens and green promenades open, and locals start lounging on the meadows below Wawel Castle by the river. What makes this city special is that it is particularly pedestrian-friendly – almost all major locations are accessible within a 20-30 minute walk through an environment created for walking: whether through gardens, cobblestone alleys of the Old Town or the street art-painted streets of the historic Jewish district of Kazimierz.
From the moment you arrive at the airport, which is about 15 kilometers from the center of Krakow, tourists are guaranteed comfort. On every corner, signs guide you to where you are going, and you can easily get to Krakow by jumping into one of the numerous taxis waiting in front of the airport (a ride to the center costs about twenty euros) or by bus, which is especially convenient if you arrive late at night (a ticket costs about one euro). However, the best option is the train, which runs every half hour to the main station in Krakow, located not far from the entrance to the Old Town. The journey takes less than by car (less than 20 minutes), the ticket is 4 euros, and you can enjoy the view of the suburbs along the way.
Overnight stays in Krakow are very affordable and it is possible to find apartments in perfect locations near the historic city center for around fifty euros per day. Upon arrival, you will notice impeccably clean streets, public transport that works like a Swiss watch, while there is no congestion, rampage and noise of sirens in traffic, at least in the areas closer to the center, and everything is subordinated to His Majesty the pedestrian. Upon leaving the main train station (Krakow Glowny), the architecture of that part of the city immediately catches your eye - the elegance of Mittel Europe, buildings with red bricks, tall windows and decorative balconies, facades with ornaments, which make Krakow look as if it is still in the 19th or early 20th century, tree-lined streets between the blocks, churches that aspire to heavenly heights and historical monuments.
North of the Old Town, on Matejko Square, stands an imposing monument dedicated to the Battle of Grunwald, in which Polish-Lithuanian forces defeated the Teutonic Order in 1410. This bloody victory paved the way for the rise of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth as one of the powers of Eastern Europe, before the territory would be gradually fragmented and divided among its envious neighbors: Prussia, Austria-Hungary, and Russia.
Opposite the Grinwald Monument stands the Barbican, a 15th-century medieval fortress surrounded by a moat that once defended the entrance to the city from enemies, and today is a historical monument with a fascinating view of the Old Town. Behind it is the main entrance, the St. Florian's Gate, decorated with Gothic decorations, while around it you can buy a variety of souvenirs. If you turn immediately to the left, you will come across the works of street artists, and if you continue straight along St. Florian's Street, you will see faded paintings of saints, Latin inscriptions, coats of arms and decorative frescoes on the way to St. Mary's Basilica and the main square (Rynek Glowny).
One of the largest squares in Europe has been the heart of this city since the 13th century, a place where various events are held every day, and there you will also find some of the most important historical buildings, from the already mentioned Basilica of St. Mary, through the Drapery Hall (Sukiennice), the tower of the old city council building, to the Church of St. Adalbert and the old patrician houses and palaces of wealthy Krakow families.
Surrounded by buildings from various eras – Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque – Krakow’s main square is something of an open-air museum. It is home to massive flocks of pigeons that locals often feed, couples in embrace on a leisurely stroll, tourists amazed by the beauty of the Old Town, and kids dancing to the loudspeakers set up next to the monument to Polish writer Adam Mickiewicz.
St. Mary's Basilica is an impressive Gothic building on one of the corners of the square, known for its beautiful 14th-century interior, striking stained glass windows and 13-meter-high altar, one of the largest of its kind, depicting scenes from the life of St. Mary. It is a true gem of medieval art. From the top of this church, every hour you will hear the Hejnal, a traditional trumpet melody. If it seems to you that it has stopped abruptly, it is because this is a tribute to the mythical trumpeter who warned the city of enemy attack, who was shot in the neck by an arrow while playing. Admission to the church costs about 4 euros. In Poland, zlotys are the currency used, and one euro is just over four zlotys.
If you're more into shopping, you'll find the iconic market in the Drapery Hall, where you can buy colorful souvenirs, icons, amber jewelry, handicrafts, and other trinkets. Don't let the contents of the stalls distract you from the historical coats of arms of various regions of Poland painted above them, on the ceiling of this more than seven-century-old building. On the floor above is a café overlooking the square and the entrance to a museum that houses some of the most important paintings and sculptures of 19th-century Polish art.
As you enter the square, the first thing you'll notice is the town hall tower, a building that was built in the early 14th century but was destroyed in 1829, while the tower survived. It's possible to climb to the top of the tower, and after climbing 110 stone steps, you'll enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of the city.
The old town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is full of hidden passages, churches from which the sounds of organs and chants echo, and every alley has its own charm. Even if you are not religious, it is worth visiting numerous churches for their immeasurable architectural and artistic value, including the Church of St. Anne, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, the Basilica of the Holy Trinity, the Church of St. Barbara, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi and others.
Near the main entrance to the Old Town is the Juliusz Slovacki Theatre, one of the most beautiful buildings in Krakow, adorned with neo-Baroque and neo-Renaissance details, and the birthplace of the modernist Young Poland art movement at the beginning of the 20th century. If you're feeling a little romantic, the square also features carriages that you can ride around the Old Town, all driven by women.
Of course, the Old Town is full of restaurants and cafes, and the ones hidden in the back streets are usually the most interesting. Each one has its own unique atmosphere: from rock pubs, to hipster cafes, to medieval-style bars, and especially impressive jazz clubs in the catacombs beneath the city. If you want to enjoy jazz classics with a glass of wine under dim lighting, keep in mind that the number of seats is very limited, as these are mostly small clubs, and you need to arrive as early as possible or reserve a table and pay for the ticket in advance (around 10 euros). In Krakow, it is not unusual for complete strangers to sit at your table (of course, they will politely ask you first), and during the concert, it rarely occurs to anyone to take out their phone and record/take pictures.
Coffee in the Old Town usually costs between 2 and 3 euros, but no amount of price will stop you once you try it - it seems like there is no bad cappuccino in Krakow, and you will especially enjoy the desserts that you will want to munch on all afternoon while watching people cross the cobblestone squares through the window of a cafe. At every turn, you will come across pastry shops and bakeries whose windows will make your mouth water. Be sure to try obarzanek - a symbol of Krakow, something like a pretzel that you can buy on the street anywhere for up to 1 euro. There is also lodi, Polish ice cream that is usually creamy, not too sweet and of high quality, and its price is also very affordable. Don't miss out on trying the local cuisine. Restaurants that focus on this usually offer the best price-quality ratio. The food is noticeably always fresh, healthy and light, not too fatty and often spicy. One of the local specialties is pierogi – a semicircular pillow-shaped pastry filled with minced meat, cabbage, potatoes, mushrooms or some fruit varieties, which costs less than 10 euros and will be your favorite gastronomic discovery. For us Balkans, the portion sometimes seems small at first glance, but it always fills you up. There is practically no bread on offer.
There are many places that focus on healthy food, gluten-free and vegan, and most of them are self-service. Service workers in Krakow usually speak English, at least as much as they need for their jobs, and one of the rare complaints is that they are generally not very friendly, and they will not hide their irritation because you did not understand the first time or because they have to answer the same questions from tourists for the umpteenth time.
If you head south from the heart of the Old Town towards the Vistula River, you will come across one of the city’s main tourist attractions – the Wawel Royal Castle, on top of the hill of the same name, next to the 900-year-old cathedral in whose crypt are the tombs of ancient Polish rulers and other distinguished citizens. Polish kings have been crowned here for centuries. It is the second largest castle in Poland, entrance fees are charged in several sectors, and if you want to visit everything, you will have to set aside almost half a day. The large complex is now home to several museums that house large art collections, furniture, weapons and other historical objects. Over the centuries, this building has been demolished and renovated several times, so an intriguing mix of styles is noticeable – mainly Renaissance and Gothic.
It is the site of numerous myths and stories, the most important of which is the one about a dragon that terrorized the locals until a brave shoemaker tricked it into feeding it a sheep full of sulfur, causing the dragon to drink water from the Vistula River and eventually explode. Near Wawel Castle there is a den where the dragon supposedly lived, which is now a tourist attraction, and near the iron gates of the cathedral you will notice huge bones hanging from chains, which supposedly belonged to the dragon. According to legend, if these bones fall to the ground, the end of the world will come. Part of the cathedral is also a bell tower that you can climb, and if you touch it with your left hand, they say that your wish will come true. On the hill you can also find the so-called Wawel Chakra – a place considered one of the world's centers of spiritual energy, which attracts numerous pilgrims every year.
Below Wawel Castle, the main star is the dragon statue, which is always surrounded by a large number of tourists who want to take pictures of it, while children play on the nearby rocks. If you want to refresh your soul and body, you can take a walk along the river, lie down on the grass to sunbathe or have a picnic, while in the distance, music from the nearby park, where tourists are offered various souvenirs and street food, and balloons fly in the sky above the river. There are several restaurants and cafes on the boats anchored here, and you can also schedule a romantic river cruise with a cocktail.
On the promenade by the river, you will also find Krakow's version of the Hollywood Walk of Fame - the Walk of Stars, where Celine Dion, Michael Jackson, Benedict Cumberbatch, and Elvis Presley, among others, received their stars.
Krakow’s Old Town is nestled in the embrace of Planty Park, another spot that’s perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle of the locals and tourists. This park, which completely surrounds the Old Town, where the walls that once defended the city from invaders once stood, is a favorite spot for locals and the city’s garden. In this oasis of peace amidst the bustling city center, you’ll find numerous small monuments among lush trees and colorful flowers, while the benches are adorned with plaques with the names of writers associated with Krakow, along with QR codes that lead to their biographies and quotes.
If you are a fan of museums and galleries, then Krakow is perfect for you. The city is full of museums for every taste, and you would probably need days and days to visit them all. In addition to the aforementioned museums on the main square, there is also the National Museum - one of the largest in Poland, MOCAK - Museum of Modern Art, Museum of Stained Glass, Museum of Japanese Art and Technology, Museum of Illusions and Be Happy interactive museum that allows visitors to record happy moments in a positive atmosphere, Bricks & Figs for Lego lovers, the Kata Katsianor Museum dedicated to the history of punishment and the role of executioners in the Middle Ages, the Polish Aviation Museum with an impressive collection of over 200 aircraft, the Ethnographic Museum, the Poster Gallery...
Near the main entrance to the Old Town, on its northern side, is the Czartoryski Museum, housed in an imposing neoclassical building. Founded in 1800, it is one of the oldest museums in Poland, housing sculptures, paintings, weapons, furniture and other historical artifacts that depict Poland’s rich history and culture. It is best known for being home to Leonardo da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine,” the most valuable of the 2.3 million registered works of art in Kraków. However, this painting, housed in a dark, stuffy room, is difficult to enjoy with the crowds of visitors constantly surrounding it, trying to take photos next to it. Fortunately, the rest of what the museum has to offer is impressive, and in addition to paintings by the greatest Polish artists, there are also works by Rembrandt, Pieter Brueghel, Jacob Jordaens and Raphael Santi, sculptures from the Roman era, sarcophagi from ancient Egypt, armor of fearless Polish hussars... Entrance to the museum costs around 15 euros.
Among the most popular museums, which are always in high demand, are the Rynek Underground and Schindler's Factory. To avoid standing in long lines and risking being left without a ticket at the end, it is recommended to purchase tickets for these museums online a few weeks in advance. It is also possible to purchase a special pass for around 40 museums in Krakow online, which costs around 37 euros and is well worth it.
Rynek Underground is a relatively new addition to Krakow's tourist attractions, having only opened in 2005. Located beneath the main square, it allows visitors to travel back to the Middle Ages and learn more about the city's history from that time. The museum was created when archaeological work uncovered ancient remains of the city from the 12th and 13th centuries, which visitors can now enjoy, with interactive screens and holograms further enhancing the experience.
The world learned about Oskar Schindler mostly thanks to the award-winning film “Schindler’s List.” When World War II began, Schindler took over an enamel factory and hired Jews as unpaid laborers, saving thousands of them from death in concentration camps. Today, the factory building is a museum where you can learn not so much about Schindler as about life in Krakow during the Nazi occupation, during which, according to some estimates, more than 6 million Poles lost their lives. On the way to Schindler’s Factory, located in Podgórze, about a half-hour walk from the Old Town, you can also visit the Banksy Museum, which houses replicas of the famous street artist’s provocative works.
It's not really a museum, even though it has that word in its name, but the Pinball Museum will make the heart skip a beat for anyone who grew up on pinball machines and arcade games in the 80s and 90s. Located in a side street at the entrance to Kazimierz, you'll find more than 80 retro pinball machines here, with various themes such as NBA, "Star Wars", "Ghostbusters"... There are also a dozen cult arcade games such as "Super Mario", "Mortal Kombat", "Out Run", "Cadillacs and Dinosaurs", "Sunset Riders"... Enough to spend half a day there, especially if the weather in Krakow is bad. An hour costs a little over 8 euros, and a whole day around 13.
Located near the old town, the former Jewish district of Kazimierz is a place where you must allow yourself to wander and soak up the atmosphere of its streets, which are adorned with historic buildings, murals, colorful cafes, kosher restaurants, synagogues, small handicraft shops, antique shops and galleries... Founded in the 14th century as a separate town, it only became part of Krakow in the 18th century.
The heart of the area is Plac Novi, a small square that is a market during the day and a center of entertainment in the evening, as it is surrounded by a wide variety of establishments, from punk pubs with cheap draft beer to bars where you can drink vodka with various flavors, absinthe bars to relaxed cafes where you can read one of the numerous books on the shelves and get a quote of the day with your drink.
On the beautiful Šeroka Street, which runs under plane and chestnut trees, there is the Old Synagogue from the 15th century, which is the oldest in Poland and today is a museum dedicated to the history of the Jews in that area, as well as the Remuh Synagogue, which is smaller, but with a beautiful interior and a cemetery behind which you can visit, where some of the tombstones date back to the 16th century. In the same place there is also a wailing wall dedicated to the Jewish victims of the Nazi occupation.
The aforementioned Plac Novi is a favorite spot for those who like to eat something on the go, and is also the birthplace of the famous zapękanki, a Polish version of pizza that was popularized in the 70s and is still the country's favorite fast food. It's supposedly the best here, and it would be a shame to visit Krakow and not enjoy its charms. In Kazimierz, you'll also find several filming locations for "Schindler's List," as well as the beautiful Basilica of Corpus Christi.
On the way to Podguž, we recommend a moment of rest on the small square in front of the Ethnographic Museum, which is ideal for enjoying ice cream and watching passersby, while children and dogs play by the fountain, and then the most beautiful choice is the Father Bernatek pedestrian bridge located at the end of the street, which was opened relatively recently, in 2010. On its structure you will see several sculptures hanging, pass by street musicians and notice that it is the Krakow Bridge of Love, on which many couples have left padlocks swearing their loyalty to each other.
As soon as you cross the bridge, you will see a stunning neo-Gothic masterpiece, the Church of St. Joseph, one of the most beautiful in the fierce competition in the city.
Go deeper into Podguže and you'll come across a square filled with empty steel chairs. It's the Ghetto Heroes' Square and a monument that commemorates the tragic liquidations of Jews that took place there during World War II.
Nearby are the remains of the wall that surrounded the ghetto into which all Jews living in the city had to move during the German occupation, at the foot of which you will find messages from visitors promising not to forget what happened there.
There is also a museum on Ghetto Heroes' Square, located where the only pharmacy that operated in the ghetto during the war once stood, and whose owner, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, was one of the few non-Jewish Poles who decided to stay in the area and who helped many escape death.
Most of the above can be visited during a weekend in Krakow, and it is only a part of what this city offers, because there are also excursions to Auschwitz, the Wieliczka Salt Mine, the unique communist area of Nowa Huta, panoramic views from huge artificial hills, a botanical garden, diverse markets and much, much more that makes this Polish city a destination that you must visit, even more than once.
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