After graduating in fashion design in Milan, at the Marangoni Institute, Anja Strugar hopes to soon present her work to her fellow citizens in Montenegro.
"During my studies, I created three original collections as part of my university projects, which were presented through academic presentations and internal fashion events. In addition, last year I published my own collection, while a new collection is currently in preparation," she tells "Vijesti", hinting that, if everything goes according to plan, she could present the last line at the Montenegrin Fashion Week in Podgorica in April.
"In my work, I am particularly interested in crochet, sewing techniques and embroidery, especially gold thread embroidery, which inspires me immensely. I developed my love for sewing and creation in my childhood. A large part of my inspiration comes from traditional motifs and the cultural heritage of Montenegro, which I strive to present in an authentic way through contemporary design," says the designer about her work, who also talks more about her previous collections.
"My previous collections were mostly created as part of college projects and on average contained about six outfits. Although they were not large in scope, each collection represented an important phase of research and shaping my own design expression," she points out.
"They were thematically inspired by the history of different countries and motifs, I experimented with types of embroidery, crystals, textures and palettes, through which I manipulated form, silhouette and details," continues Strugar.
"The promotion of the first collections took place primarily through the faculty in Milan, through presentations and internal fashion events, while the last collection received significantly more media attention. I promoted it through social networks, mostly through Instagram, but also through certain fashion portals and newspapers, which allowed me to reach a wider audience and the professional community," explains the interviewee of "Vijesti".
And when it comes to her latest collection, which she would like to present in Montenegro, it is called "Bloom of Heritage".
"The name itself represents a combination of floral motifs and cultural identity from which I draw most of my inspiration. The collection is strongly inspired by the gold embroidery of Montenegro, ornamental details and the richness of traditional craftsmanship. A large part of the collection consists of crocheted accessories that also draw inspiration from our tradition and handcraft, while the jewelry is designed according to details, forms and colors," describes Strugar, who worked on the models from the "Bloom of Heritage" collection for almost a year.
"However, the research and learning process itself takes much longer, because it was extremely important to me to point out numerous traditional details through the design and present them in a modern and contemporary way. I dedicated a large part of my time to studying motifs, production techniques and historical elements so that each segment of the collection had its own authenticity and clear meaning," the designer points out.
"The creative process itself was very intense. Each piece was made at least five to six times before it took its final form, because I believe that the process of research, testing and refinement is key to a quality result. Through numerous sketches, material testing and model versions, I managed to come up with a look that fully reflects my idea and the aesthetic direction I want to present," she adds, revealing more about the inspiration that guided her while working on the models.
“The inspiration for this collection came from a blend of different cultures and historical influences. I found my initial visual inspiration in the mosaics I had the opportunity to see throughout Italy, especially in Sicily. The way the shapes, colors, and ornamental compositions were processed there left an impression on me and played an important role in shaping the aesthetic direction of the collection, especially in the segments of decoration and arrangement of details,” she explains.
"After that, as far as Montenegrin tradition is concerned, a special place is occupied by elements such as the ćemer, which shows the skill of craftsmanship, then the kukuljica from the southern Montenegrin costume, which I find very interesting, as well as the lace made in Kotor, which I consider an extremely valuable part of our history and artistic heritage. Traditional jewelry, especially from the Austro-Hungarian period, also had a great influence," says the fashion designer.
“In addition, I found inspiration in embroidery techniques from France, which were significant to me because of their precision and elegance,” she emphasizes.
This collection, he says, will contain eight models, behind which there is a very detailed and long production process.
"Although the number of pieces is not large, the focus was on quality, handwork and precision in each design segment. Each model went through multiple stages of development and had several versions before it took its final form," answers Strugar, explaining which season the models are for.
"The collection is primarily inspired by the spring/summer season, but also contains elements reminiscent of autumn wardrobe. In this way, the collection does not belong strictly to one time frame, but allows for adaptability and wearability in different seasons, which is very important in contemporary fashion," she concludes.
Strugar also reveals that the collection is dominated by gold, green, pink and blue.
"When it comes to materials, I mostly used brocade, satin, silk materials and lace. The pieces were additionally decorated with embroidery, various stones and beads, which also achieved a different visual effect. I ordered certain fabrics specifically to be made according to motifs and ideas that were in line with the concept of the collection," she says.
She is inspired by eras such as the Renaissance and antiquity.
When it comes to fashion role models, Strugar says that there are many, but he prefers to find inspiration in certain historical periods.
"I have several fashion role models that I greatly appreciate, but I don't strictly adhere to specific names, but rather prefer to find inspiration in historical periods, cultures, and artistic movements," she claims.
"I am particularly inspired by eras such as the Renaissance and antiquity, and French fashion during the Renaissance also has a significant influence on me, which attracts me with its elegant silhouettes, luxurious materials, and exceptional attention to detail and ornamentation," said Strugar.
"I find a great source of inspiration in the history and aesthetics of different countries, especially India and China. Traditional Indian embroidery, the making of Chinese and Japanese porcelain fascinate me with their precision, symbolism and decorativeness," adds the fashion designer.
"However, I try to make all these influences a starting point, not a rule. The most important thing for me is to maintain authenticity and my own designer signature, because I believe that true identity in fashion is built through personal exploration, understanding of culture, and continuous experimentation," she says.
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