A collection inspired by the organic philosophy of architecture of Antoni Gaudí

Ana Vasiljević talks to "Vijesti" about the collection she will present at Montenegrin Fashion Week, as well as the collaboration with students who will also show their works.

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Photo: Aleksandar Čelar
Photo: Aleksandar Čelar
Disclaimer: The translations are mostly done through AI translator and might not be 100% accurate.

One of the designers who will present her new collections at this year's spring edition of Montenegrin Fashion Week is Ana Vasiljević, who in an interview with "Vijesti" hints at what she has prepared for the occasion. The fashion designer also spoke to her students from the Faculty of Fashion Design, who will also present their works, but also about her role as a mentor.

At the beginning of the interview, Vasiljević reveals the name of the collection, as well as the inspiration that guided her during the creation of the model.

"The theme of Antoni Gaudí's architecture has been around for a long time, given that I have lived in Barcelona for years and everything he has done for the city is its trademark, but that also means a greater responsibility in relation to the complexity of his works. 'Biomorph' is a fashion collection inspired by Antoni Gaudí's organic philosophy of architecture, created to mark the 100th anniversary of his death," she explains.

Model from the Ana Vasiljević collection
Model from the Ana Vasiljević collectionphoto: Aleksandar Čelar

"The collection explores the deep connection between the body, nature and design through fluid forms, organic silhouettes and shades of green that symbolise growth and harmony with nature. Butterfly motifs appear as a symbol of transformation, regeneration and the fragile balance of ecosystems. Like Gaudi's architecture, which emerged from natural structures and movements, 'Biomorph' celebrates the idea that fashion is a living form - evolving, adapting and breathing in balance with the world around us. Although I present it in the spring term, it is not oriented to a season, it is a timeless expression", concludes the fashion designer.

"I present it in the form of a capsule collection with ten outlets, but in fact its content is much more substantial, more extensive compared to the 'mix and match' principle that I apply," adds Vasiljević, describing the occasions for which the models are intended, but also the type of woman they are intended for.

"I'm not addressing the occasion, I'm addressing everyone who strives for sustainability in an elegant, artistic, original, and above all aesthetically and ethically acceptable way. Everyone who appreciates fashion as part of the application of art, which it is," believes the interviewee of "Vijesti".

Sketch by Ana Vasiljević
Sketch by Ana Vasiljevićphoto: Aleksandar Čelar

She points out that the idea for the collection itself has been with her for a long time, but she started working on it a few months ago.

"The idea has been around for a long time, the research has been around for a long time, but adapting it to my aesthetics of minimalism, deconstruction, and geometry is not easy, so the process itself started towards the end of last year and was completed recently. The collection is finished, now I am dedicated to the details regarding the show itself, that is the part that is the crowning glory of the work and a real pleasure," she concludes.

Vasiljević also points out in the interview that he always strives to use natural materials.

"I try to use natural materials, such as cotton poplins, there is also viscose, but also occasional elements of certain new technological offerings. The color palette is based on neutrals - black and white, and an accent of green, each color has its own role," emphasizes the fashion designer.

"Green, a symbol of life, growth and harmony with nature; represents the sustainability and constant evolution of the organic world. Black refers to natural cycles, the decomposition from which new life emerges, but also to the structure and strength of form. White, a symbol of purity, balance and space, represents light and the beginning of every new form," Vasiljević further explains.

When asked whether the collection will be presented anywhere else after Montenegro Fashion Week, he says:

"Part of the collection is already on offer, so MFW is actually the final presentation of this collection. It has already come to life with some of its elements, and we'll see if it will be available elsewhere, part of some international exhibitions, for sure."

At the same event, students mentored by Vasiljević will also present their models, hinting at what fashion lovers can expect from their work.

"Yes, several of them from the second year of the Fashion Design department will present themselves with a draping project through the theme 'Metamorphosis', which they explored through changes in natural phenomena. They give us part of their research, creation in realization, but also the final part of the results of that experiment," she said.

"Young talents are always refreshing in their view of fashion, and UDG Fashion Design... has been setting an example of a truly original approach to contemporary fashion at MFW for years now," added the fashion designer.

Asked how she strikes a balance as a mentor in terms of not influencing students' freedom too much, and on the other hand, pointing out mistakes if they make them, Vasiljević answers:

"I advocate independence in design, but on the other hand, without the correction and certain experience that we give them, it is impossible for them to progress, so it is a healthy symbiosis with the goal of quality shaping of the idea."

Vasiljević also referred to the constant competitor of fashion designers - fast fashion, and explained how difficult it is to combat this phenomenon in the Balkans.

"I think it's a big challenge no matter where you are. I haven't lived in the Balkans for almost a decade, but Spain, where I live, is also very problematic in this regard. As a designer who has a PhD in sustainability, it's not difficult for me to deal with it, on the contrary, it's an imperative in every one of my collections and I learn a lot from every one of my fashion stories," she points out.

"...But as a consumer, it's a daily work on yourself, because fast fashion isn't the only problem, we are consumers of everything that surrounds us, and the amount of information we are bombarded with every day really makes it a big challenge to stay calm in all of it. I've changed a lot in my consumer behavior and I know how to limit what's unnecessary. It seems difficult, but in the end it's actually healing - your focus is on quality, not quantity," she pointed out.

This year's 39th edition of Montenegrin Fashion Week will be held from April 6 to 13 under the official name Blanc Fashion Week Montenegro, in Podgorica and Budva, the Fashion Chamber of Montenegro announced earlier.

The grand opening and thematic exhibition will be held on April 6 at 19 p.m. in Podgorica, and on that occasion a team of Montenegrin designers will each present a unique dress inspired by the character and work of the Montenegrin princess and the Italian queen Jelena Petrović of Savoy. The exhibition will be available to visitors throughout the event.

The first fashion show evening is scheduled for April 7th, starting at 8:30 PM, in Podgorica, when collections will be presented by Anja Radulović, Fashion Company XYZ, Hana Bihorac, students of UDG (Faculty of Fashion Design), SP Gentleman - Suzana and Predrag Murišić, Blanka Orlando and Timur Tursunkulov.

The following day, April 8th, at 19 pm, Kids Fashion Day will be held in Podgorica.

"Global Kids Talent Agency and Top 3 Models present the collections of Ukrainian designer Vitalina Smitko - Vitalina for Kids, as well as the sophisticated models of Serbian designer Vedrana Milanović - Atelje Luccino. UMS Talent School will present the latest collection of the Italian fashion house Benetton," the organizers point out.

On Thursday, April 9, starting at 8:30 p.m., the program in Podgorica will be opened by Montenegrin fashion designer Marina Banović, and the audience will, in addition to Ana Vasiljević's collection, also see those of the GAS brand, Anna Suevalova, Montana Montenegro fashion brand, as well as a show by the French fashion house Pierre Cardin.

The finale of Montenegrin Fashion Week is scheduled for April 13th in Budva, starting at 19 pm, on Galija beach, and on that occasion, Verica Rakočević will present her new collection.

"The realization of this year's fashion event was supported by the Tourist Organization of Podgorica and the Tourist Organization of Budva. This cooperation also represents the official announcement of the upcoming tourist season," the Fashion Chamber of Montenegro pointed out.

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