Skradin – a reason to deviate from the road

For the May Day holidays, we suggested trips to several lesser-known places in the area that you probably haven't thought much about as tourist destinations. Among them was the Croatian town of Skradin.

A place, like from a postcard, that when I travel along the highway along the Croatian coast for years now - I look longingly and every time at the same place - I make a promise to myself that I will stop by on my way back. And so - the fashionable port with stone walls as a backdrop remained an unfulfilled dream for me. This time, returning along the Croatian highway towards Montenegro from the direction of Zagreb - I turned and went down to the Skradin Valley.

Clumsy stone houses, a marina full of sailboats, tourists and locals leisurely spending a Sunday. The first sign that Skradin is much more than a passing sight viewed from a distance through a car window.

Mid-May was ideal for exploring this small and cozy town. Warm enough to sit by the water, but cool enough not to let the wine cool down or melt the chocolate icing on the famous Skradin cake.

This place doesn't like noise or ostentation. Local restaurateurs speak almost shyly about famous guests, but the internet records stories of Bill Gates stopping by here during their Adriatic cruises, as well as Eva Longoria and Roman Abramovich. They say they weren't attracted by luxury, but quite the opposite – peace, stone, wine, homemade brandy and the feeling that you're somewhere where time passes more slowly.

And that feeling follows you as soon as you step into the narrow stone streets of the town situated between the sea and the river, at the very entrance to the Krka National Park. Here, the Mediterranean and the continent, the river and the sea, dance slowly, and a little sleepily. Sweet and salty. West and east.

The alleys are full of life, but without the tourist aggression. The waiters, with a smile and unobtrusively, invite you to sit at the colorful tables from which the smell of local strawberries is a sign of welcome. Among the dilapidated but picturesque houses, languages ​​​​from all over the world can be heard. In the spring, the borders of tiny Skradin expand along with the arrival of guests.

Just a few hundred meters from each other, churches rise, telling their own stories about the history of this place – the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary with its recognizable bell tower, visible from the highway, and the Orthodox Church of St. Spyridon. On Sunday morning, we peeked into both the mass and the liturgy – a tourist one, of course – to try, at least for a moment, to feel the spirit of a place that has lived for centuries at the crossroads of cultures, religions, and trade routes.

Skradin is one of the oldest Croatian towns. Back in Roman times, Scardona was located here, an important trading and military center. Later, it was ruled by the Croatian nobles, the Šubićs, and the town was once the political center of Croatia and Bosnia. Today, the entire old town core is a protected cultural monument.

Walking through the city, you will come across Venetian-style facades from the 18th and 19th centuries, old stone passages, small squares and buildings that authentically preserve the stories of other times. Dominating above all is the Turina Fortress, a medieval fortress that can be reached from the center in a few minutes' easy walk. From the walls, the view opens up to the Krka River, the highway bridge, the marina and the red roofs of the city.

And the marina is a special story of Skradin.

It is not just a place where yachts and sailboats dock. It is an extension of the city. Located in a deep, naturally protected bay, it is one of the rare marinas on brackish water – a mixture of fresh river water and salty sea water that forms at the mouth of the Krka River. Such water creates a specific natural balance, so algae and shells are caught more slowly on vessels, and the marina is at the same time protected from strong winds and ideal for a safe stay for boaters.

The marina has around 180 berths and dozens of buoys, but its greatest quality is not the infrastructure but the atmosphere.

Here, yachts are not a separate world of luxury. Sailors go out among the people, sit in local taverns, walk along the waterfront, go to the Krka River and become part of the everyday life of the city. Skradin has managed what many Mediterranean towns have not – to prevent tourism from swallowing up the local identity. Although a wealthy clientele stops here in the summer during their sea voyages - there are no shops of famous world brands or any hint of luxury. All you can buy are local souvenirs, dominated by linen bags of lavender that fill the streets and squares.

Boats depart from the waterfront towards Skradinski buk, the most famous site in the Krka National Park. The half-hour ride through greenery, reeds and calm river water seems almost unreal. And then Skradinski buk opens up before you – water overflowing over barriers and creating scenes that bring people from all over the world.

But Krka is not just Skradinski buk. There is also Roški slap, Visovac, Krka Monastery, Burnum, Manojlovac, cycling and hiking trails that lead through landscapes that make you feel like you are at the sea and deep inland at the same time.

However, what is remembered the longest in Skradin is neither the waterfalls nor the fortresses.

People are remembered.

Fishermen who talk about the wild fish they catch for their family and guests. Winemakers who sing about their wines. Chefs explain in detail, with passion, how to prepare Skradin risotto, a dish that is cooked for ten or more hours, with constant stirring and patience that is almost unknown in today's times. The most visited taverns are those that look like modest fishermen's homes. In a nice winery we met a young waiter, born in 2001, he said. His kindness, details about the wines and the chocolate cake gave me the signal that I could ask him something more.

He got married on a bridge, at a highway rest stop, where there is the most fabulous view of his beloved hometown. His wife, he says, is from southern Serbia. They enjoy love, gastronomy, nature and the multicultural environment they are creating for their little son, who will soon be two years old.

Every word spoken with a smile conveys that he is in love with his city, his family and his work. Along with the order, he tells the story of the 'Skradin cake' – a delicacy made from almonds, walnuts, honey, rose liqueur, local prosecco and old customs. In the past, girls, he says, would prepare it before getting married to treat the groom and guests. In Skradin, it is still said that there is no real celebration without this cake. It is so good that I have decided to share the recipe with you, which can be found on link.

As you sit by the waterfront and watch the evening light descend on the sailboats and centuries-old stone homes, it becomes clear why people don't come here just for the nature.

They come for feelings.

Skradin is one of those places that will never make it difficult for you to stray from your path again.