The unstable weather that follows in step with 2025 disrupts the daily pace of everyone in Montenegro, but especially those whose "lives" directly depend on it. Oven-like heat, late frosts, devastating droughts, sharp, slapping winds are just some of the factors that make the work of the people who care for thousands of hectares of plantations on the Ćemovsko polje difficult.
The unpredictable fluctuations of the climate thus govern the fate of the local plantations like the sea governs a sailboat, and the same story is always told here - a saga that has spanned two centuries, or more than 60 years. The goal here is always the same, from spring to autumn, to push forward in one's own way and against the natural elements, so that the harvests are completed, the fruit is processed, packed into crates or bottles and sold.
"Vijesti" also experienced a small part of that story, during a short visit to the state-owned company "13. jul Plantaže". This early morning was different from previous ones, because despite the summer and unbearable temperatures that marked a good part of June and the beginning of July, the heat this time was not a problem because the wind sent shivers down your spine at times. The Ćemovsko polje is as flat as glass, which means that there is essentially nothing to stop and break the gusts of wind, so you can feel the unpolished and raw nature that whips peaches, vineyards, olives...
The wind also has its advantages, as it makes it difficult for insects to fly, which were not present on this occasion, but it probably generally bothers those who are engaged in harvesting in the fruit rows. The days of the pickers begin at dawn, the work is not easy, so they, together with the others who work in this place, dance a continuous tango and adapt to the chaotic rhythm of the microclimate in this oasis...
FOR NEW HECTARES 7.000.000 EUROS
The director of the wine and fruit production sector at Plantaže told "Vijesti" that they are doing everything they can to restore vineyards, make production stable in the long term, use modern technologies for growing and processing grapes, and gradually reduce dependence on seasonal crops. Milena Perunicic.
She explained that the economically viable lifespan of a grapevine is 20 to 30 years, but that a significant portion of the more than 2.000 hectares (a hectare is 10.000 square meters) of plantations on Ćemovsko polje are older than 25 years, i.e. so old that the grapevine naturally enters a phase of lower yields and greater need for care...
"The renewal of plantations, which in the period after 2014 was not adequate and in line with needs, led to a disrupted age structure of vineyards and further complicated the application of modern agrotechnical measures. This year, we started clearing 200 hectares of the oldest plantations that no longer meet modern viticulture standards and at the same time we are investing in new plantations. This year, 60 hectares of white wine varieties were planted, which is part of a broader strategy that has resulted in the establishment of around 140 hectares of new vineyards in the last three years. The results of this dedicated work will be seen in the years to come. The costs of vineyard renewal per hectare depend on numerous factors, such as planting density and equipment, but they are approximately around 25.000 euros per hectare. We finance all investments from our own funds, from 2021 to today, over 7 million euros have been invested, mostly in new plantations, equipment, and construction works. In 2024 alone, it amounts to "3.000.000 euros, and we have the same plan for this season," Peruničić pointed out.
As the plant ages, he says, its vitality also declines, yields decrease over the years, and production costs remain high, so the amount of grapes per hectare is also decreasing. All of this, he explains, practically means that the consumption of fertilizers, protective materials and energy in order to maintain production is the same - while the results are decreasing. He claims that not all modern procedures can be used for these older plantations, while the lack of seasonal labor complicates maintenance, because it is difficult to apply measures to reduce the need for manual labor in these plantations.
Therefore, as Peruničić says, they make decisions based on real needs and are engaged in renewal because they understand the strategic importance of the grapevine. He also claims that the effects and consequences of decisions in agriculture are measured in the long term, so climate change is an additional obstacle for them because they have no control over it. He adds that they must plan long-term and responsibly, because that means the future and continuity of the quality for which the company was awarded.
BAD YEAR FOR STONE FRUIT
Peruničić also pointed out that it is too early to make estimates about this year's harvest, because this "open-air factory" depends on weather conditions, especially in the case of vineyards and olive groves whose production processes are still underway. She pointed out that so far they have harvested 400 tons of peaches, nectarines, and apricots, or 60 percent from those areas...
"The situation in the vineyards is stable and all agrotechnical measures have been implemented on time and in full, which has given a good boost to the season. If the weather conditions are favorable and we provide a sufficient number of workers for timely harvesting, we expect the harvest to proceed as planned. In the fruit growing sector, the situation is somewhat different, the season was extremely demanding in meteorological terms, we had late frosts at the end of February, then a rather rainy March and an unusually cool May, which adversely affected earlier varieties of peaches and nectarines. We expect slightly lower yields this year, but we will know for sure at the end of the harvest. In general, the season is bad and the year is bad for stone fruits, not only here but in the region, but regardless, we are focusing on preserving quality through careful selection and good organization of the harvest," Peruničić pointed out, adding that the harvest is approximately at the level of last year, but that due to the quality we were able to secure a better price for peaches.
Quality, she says, is their top priority, so they harvest stone fruit and table wine by hand in several stages, with selection and to meet market demands for the appearance of the fruit. She points out that they have six specialized harvesters, but they often have to harvest wine grapes in a combined manner or by hand because the oldest vineyards are not suitable for mechanical harvesting due to the structure and arrangement of the vines. Peruničić said that a significant part of the plantations have been adapted to machines, which allows them to work more efficiently and reduces dependence on seasonal workers, and that the mechanization can replace the work of 120 to 130 workers.
This way, she claims, they are safer from climate change and adverse weather conditions, but they certainly hope that these phenomena will bypass them. Unfortunately, the storm did not bypass them at the end of June 2022, when the city caused eight million euros in damage. Asked about the status of the plantations that were affected at that time, Peruničić added that they were restored due to agrotechnical measures and are currently in good condition.
PICKERS FROM THE SURROUNDINGS
Peruničić emphasized that 25 to 30 workers are employed for the peach harvest, and that this is sufficient for the current pace and volume of work, but also that most of them come from Montenegro, and a smaller number from the region.
"In the coming days, the table grape harvest will begin, for which we will need up to 130 seasonal workers. So far, we have solid announcements and interest, but given the pronounced labor shortage in agriculture throughout the region, we remain cautious and are taking additional measures to ensure the necessary number of workers in a timely manner. Between August and September, it is planned to hire between 350 and 400 seasonal workers for the manual harvest of wine grapes. The structure of the seasonal workforce mainly includes workers from the region, i.e. North Macedonia, Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Albania, while the number of domestic workers in these jobs is smaller, meaning there is no interest from domestic labor. Previous experiences with labor from distant Asian countries have not been in line with expectations, so we are currently not relying on that option because these jobs require workers with certain experience," said Peruničić.
She explained that their salary is calculated based on performance, meaning that they pay 55 cents for a PVC crate of peaches weighing up to eight kilograms. She pointed out that workers earn an average of up to 30 euros per day, while more experienced pickers can earn up to 50 euros for six hours of work. The working day here is not easy and starts at 5 am, but Peruničić emphasizes that it lasts until 11 am at the latest due to the high daily temperatures. She added that table grape harvesting is better paid than peach harvesting, because the fruit is picked directly in the orchard and does not undergo additional classification in the sorting room, and ranges from 50 to 70 cents per crate weighing five to seven kilograms. She added that the price depends on the stage of harvesting and the situation in the field, while wine grapes are paid five or six cents per kilogram.
"Vijesti" also spoke with the pickers they found in the orchards, specifically while picking peaches, with a man from Podgorica Zvonimir Gugusic He said that he had just started working, but that the job was not difficult for him.
"The job itself is not difficult, a granny could do it, but the heat is the only problem, everything else is okay. We finish work around 11, so we don't work during the hottest time. I'm from Podgorica, I have transportation. I'm prepared for the heat, I wear a hat, I drink more water, I even pour it on myself. I worked in the summer of 2002 or 2003, peach picking too. I'm satisfied, the salary is okay, the working conditions are good, except for the heat, which is normal...", he pointed out.
He also said that he had already spent several seasons at this location. Nikaj Djokic and added that his harvest depends on the day, but that he sometimes harvests up to 35 kilograms.
"The work is going well, it's not my first time picking, this is the seventh year I've been here seasonally. You have to get tired, some are slower, some are faster. It's good, not bad...", said Đokić.
TEMPERATURE OF ALL TROUBLES
Peruničić confirmed that working in high temperatures is difficult, which is why the harvest is organized at dawn, but that apart from being a measure to protect workers, it is done to preserve the freshness of the fruit. She explains that the fruit is later transported and sorted, so it is crucial that it remains fresh.
She emphasized that high temperatures and extreme weather conditions are increasingly affecting viticulture production, not only in Montenegro but also globally, and that data from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV) for 2023 and last year show that numerous European wine-growing regions have faced challenges, including early frosts, heavy rainfall, prolonged droughts and ultimately a reduction in overall wine production.
"When we talk about our plantings, the current condition of most of the vineyards is stable despite the challenges that the high temperatures we had in June brought us in some phases. The temperatures in June were so high that they were four degrees higher than the average temperatures. There was also some precipitation, so a lot depends on the weather conditions in the coming weeks, as well as on the timing of the harvest and the availability of labor. We are working intensively on this in order to be ready to welcome the start of the harvest and make the most of this year's potential, which is solid and good in all respects...", said Peruničić.
One thing is for sure, the unpredictable weather is a problem for everyone in Montenegro, so they can find a break and escape from the heat in air-conditioned rooms and survive critical parts of the day. However, there is no such luxury in Ćemovsko polje, there is no hiding from the sun, nor is the green vast sea offering protection from strong winds, so sometimes when going to the store, it is worth remembering the dance that someone plays with the elements of weather, in order to push the fruits to the shelves for us...
Last year in the black, with revenue of 34,9 million euros
"Plantaže" ended last year with a profit of 230 thousand euros before taxes, and they told "Vijesti" that they also achieved the highest income in the last ten years, namely 34,9 million euros.
This, they claim, is seven percent more than the year before, while last year also saw sales growth on the domestic and foreign markets.
"Despite inflationary pressures and the objective increase in wage costs, as a result of the increase in the calculation value of the point by 9 percent, from May 2023, the implementation of the 'Europe Now 1' program, the increase in overtime and Sunday work costs, due to the entry into force of the new General Collective Agreement, as well as the increase in seasonal labor costs, due to global and market conditions, the company's operating costs were maintained at the previous year's level, as a confirmation of a rational approach and careful management of resources," the company emphasized.
They state that these results for last year, with an increase in EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, etc.) to 5,4 million euros, a decrease in bank liabilities by 3,6 million euros, showed that they are operating more stably, while total liabilities have also been reduced by more than four million euros in the last two years.
They did not elaborate on their plans for this year, only saying that the grape harvest is yet to come, but that they are investing in new plantations, expanding the range of strong alcoholic beverages through the recently launched Montenegrin Pelinkovac, a new muscat brandy, and that they are in the final stages of preparing premium olive oil...
They added that this year they also won 28 medals at the most prestigious international wine competitions.
They've been using wells for 40 years, but the water is getting less and less.
"Plantaže" on Ćemovsko polje also owns wells that they use to water the vines using a drop-by-drop system, and the company explained that this situation is more demanding every year due to falling water levels and drying out.
Peruničić added that there are more than 20 of these wells.
They pointed out that increasingly pronounced droughts, high temperatures, winds, and fire risks pose the greatest challenges to modern viticulture, making cultivation unthinkable without a stable and reliable irrigation system.
"Some of the wells, which have been in use for 40 years, are recording a drop in water levels and even occasional signs of drying out, which poses a challenge in planning and implementing a stable irrigation system. We are continuously monitoring their functionality and taking appropriate remediation measures, but it is clear that in the future it will be necessary to provide more reliable water sources," Plantaže said.
They also claim that data from their weather station shows that June was exceptionally warm, with an average air temperature of 27 degrees Celsius, or 4,2 degrees above normal. This, they say, was accompanied by a lack of rain, so they have to constantly adapt while every day in production is a challenge.
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