Above the confluence of the Piva and Tara rivers, on an elevation whose peak is 927 meters above sea level, above Šćepan Polje, was the medieval town of Soko, where duke Sandalj Hranić and his nephew, duke Stefan (Stjepan) Vukčić Kosača dined. Obren Blagojević wrote that Soko grad was the summer residence of Sandalj Hranić and that "under Sokol on Šćepan Polje" he issued two charters to the people of Dubrovnik - in June 1419 and in May a year later.
Although the city of Soko is first mentioned in the above-mentioned charters in preserved sources, it is certain that it existed earlier, probably at the end of the XNUMXth century.
Duke Stefan inherited the city from his uncle and used the title "from Sokol" after him. Neatly placed signposts, very useful information boards lead to its foot, but also a kilometer of dirt roads that are best crossed by SUV or on foot. In order to get to the remains of the city, which in the Middle Ages was the most important seat of the Vuković-Hranić family, you have to pass through the Živković family estate and then along an impassable path, overgrown with thorns and thickets, with a high probability that some reptile will block your way, the way of heaven .
As the friendly host Đorđije Živković told the "Vijesti" team, those who come to "conquer" Soko town mostly look at it from the foothills.
Few, who have to be extremely dexterous, like the "Vijesti" photojournalist, dare to climb to the top.
"I have known about Soko town since I can remember myself. When you get up there, it feels like the whole world is yours. The city is made of siga from Grubačka houses. It was the summer residence of Prince Stefan and due to its geographical location, it was one of the most fortified cities", says Živković, who, among other jobs, taught the Serbo-Croatian language for several years, although he "hangs out" with history intensively.
And while he tells how he and his brother Božidar-Džigi, a writer and initiator of literary meetings "Tara without borders", who passed away four years ago, conquered the city of Soko, he also mentions the youth he "saved" because he did not allow them to try to embark on a campaign to the top of the hill where the remains of the city of Stefan Vukčić Kosača are located, who died on this day 554 years ago, bore the title of Duke of Saint Sava and was the founder of the Voivodeship of Saint Sava, later, after his title, called Herzegovina.
Almost vertical rocks formed a natural defense for the city, and on a steep hill there was a castle with a court. Remains of ramparts, towers, cisterns and two carved stone benches (chairs) are visible, although overgrown with weeds.
"The chair on the right was struck by lightning, so you can still see that broken part. I found information that Duke Stefan had his own theater here and that he held performances in Dubrovnik, on Stradun. Unfortunately, the city is unexplored and funds should be invested both for its research and for asphalting the kilometer road from the Zagrađe monastery to it, as well as cleaning the path that leads to the top of the city. This place could be valorized, you just need to invest in it. Often people come with the intention of visiting it, but it cannot be reached. They ask about the history of the city and to those who ask and want to listen, I tell what I know. A little history, a little legend, because in every history there are legends, and in every legend there is history. I would rather accept the legends even though it is not authoritative, but historians write history as it suits them. We should not forget that history is written by the victors," says the man who, since 1996, has lived between Ćepal, the Živković estate at the foot of Soko town, and Toronto.
He says that since 1996 he has come to Pivo 76 times, and he explains the reason by stating that one should live "where it is nicer, not where it is better, because nicer lasts longer".
"The further a man is from home, the closer he is to it. For the last five or six years, I've been going there and back every two months."
Since he made a real little paradise on earth on the family estate, which is located in a fantastic place, it is no wonder that old age draws him so much.
He talked about the history of the Kosača dynasty, about the legends that he loves so much, but also about his family, about his grandfather who responded to the proclamation of King Nikola and went to Shkodra, about his father who was a military person, about his brother who was a writer, about a Bosnian woman to whom he said that it comes from a place where when you climb a hill - you just reach out and "pick" the stars. She believed him, and later she convinced herself of the truth of his words. The two of them have been "picking" stars together for more than three decades, and the "stars" they are especially proud of are their sons Vladimir and Nikola and granddaughter Valerija.
Šćepan Polje had 12 inhabitants in the Middle Ages. From here you can see Piva and Tara, and when you climb Soko grad - you can see the formations. There are a million places more beautiful than this, but for me this is the most beautiful. I go to Toronto and people ask me how long I'm staying. They already see me as someone who has returned home," says the unsuspecting actor.
He says that he intended to enroll in acting, but he finished the Serbo-Croatian language and Yugoslav literature. That's why he opened an amateur theater in Toronto with a friend 17 years ago and played in almost 170 plays.
Church and monastery as endowments
Duke Sandalj Hranić and Duke Stefan Vukčić Kosača built two endowments - the first was the church of St. Stephen, the so-called Šćepanic, in Šćepan Polje, and the second was a monastery in Zagrađe. Both of them built a tomb for themselves in their endowments - the duke was buried under a stećak in his Šćepanica, while Duke Stefan was not.
The monastery was built in the first half of the 1998th century, above the confluence of the Piva and Tara rivers, and the Zagrađe monastery church is dedicated to the birth of St. John the Baptist. It was almost in ruins for centuries, but its restoration began in XNUMX, and in September of last year, Herzeg's temple was consecrated. The church was restored, the monastery circle was arranged, gate walls, sub-walls, bell towers, an inn, and an attractive lookout point with a telescope of the model used in the Paris tower were built. An icon painting workshop is also located in this monastery. The road to the monastery is paved. The abbot Archimandrite Lazar (Stojković) is especially responsible for its present appearance, who invested everything he would have earned as a fresco painter in the restoration of the monastery, incorporating his own life into that sanctuary. The interior of Herceg's church is decorated with a stunning fresco, which was painted by Abbot Lazar.
Stone sleepers are protected by UNESCO
A forest path, about 200 meters long, leads from the Živković house to the Greek cemetery, where there are 16 stećaks that have entered the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Those stone sleepers are mostly undecorated, made of local stone, and the tomb of Petka the Christian stands out, carved from hard whitish sandstone, built between 1435 and 1448, which contains an epigraphic inscription carved on the north and east sides. The inscriptions are barely visible, and the stećak is covered with moss. The longer inscription reads: "Here I set a mark for life: and I waited for death in Sokol and for the kind Mr. Duke Stjepan who fed me honestly: and God buried his soul because I am Petko a Christian", while on the other side of the tombstone it is written: "God, I Petko Christian, (keep) my soul." Brothers and company, please do not trample as you pass by, because I was like you and you will be like me mortal".
It is assumed that Petko lived at the court, in Soko grad, and was a confidant of Duke Stefan Vukčić Kosača. He met a natural death in the city and was buried in the suburb of Sokol.
"Piva" nature park will work on valorization
Since the beginning of its existence, the "Piva" nature park has considered the location of Soko town extremely valuable, both in terms of culture and history, as well as in terms of tourism, Director Slobodan Delić pointed out.
"Since we received funds this year through a project financed by the Ministry of Culture, we will undertake a series of activities on the development of the area where the city of Soko was and its tourism valorization", he told "Vijesta".
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