At the beginning of July, three Montenegrin mountaineers from three mountaineer clubs climbed the Alps massif and conquered seven peaks.
Members of PK Visokogorci Filip Roganović and Boris Čelebić, PK Komovi - Dušan Pejović, Duško Mrdak and Aleksandar Bošković and Andrija Zvicer from the Small Alpinist Club started the expedition on July 7.
By July 16, half of them managed to conquer the peaks of Marmolada 3.344 (Dolomites), Zumsteinspitze 4.563 meters high, Parot 4.432, Punta Gnifeti 4.554, Corno Nero 4.332, Ludwigshohe 4.341, and Balmenhorn 4.167.
Part of the team did not reach all the peaks due to altitude sickness.
Čelebić told "Vijesta" that the trip to the Alps massif was originally planned as a club expedition of Visokogorac.
"After a chance meeting of old friends and a couple of phone conversations, it turned into a mixed expedition of three mountaineering clubs from Montenegro... We left Podgorica on July 7 at around 18.30:9 p.m., and arrived at the Fedaia Lago lake tomorrow at around 2.600 a.m.... We packed things and took the cable car up to XNUMX meters to the mountain lodge, and then reached the start of the via ferrata over rocks, glaciers and sluices, hooked onto the cables and ascended quite quickly," said Čelebić.
The member of Visokogorac explains that after four hours of walking they reached the top of Marmolada.
The team used the next day to rest and tour northern Italy, and then spent the night at the Arco Lido camp.
They started their ascent to Monte Rosa from Alagna Valsesia, from where they took the cable car to 3.200 meters.
"After that, after an hour and thirty minutes of walking on the glacier and the secured path, we reach the mountain lodge. We were accompanied by clouds throughout the ascent, periodically raining with thunder. We spent the night in the Gnifeti lodge at 3.650 meters, and the next day we headed for one of the most beautiful alpine peaks - Lyskam 4.527 meters above sea level," said Čelebić.
The mountaineer says that ten centimeters of snow fell during the night and that they were followed by a strong wind on the way up from the morning. Nevertheless, they reached the ridge of Lyskama without major problems: "We were carrying new snow through unknown terrain. The ice below it created an unsafe surface... At about 10 hours and 40 minutes, a sudden cloud and the fact that we were in a five-man crew, which was still too big for this peak, forced us to return from an altitude of 4.350 meters above sea level. We went down to Gnifeta, and on the way back the first symptoms of altitude sickness appeared."
Due to altitude sickness, one part of the team went down to Alagne Valsesia, and the other climbed the Zumsteinspitze peak after four hours, and Punta Gnifeti an hour later, and descended to Margarita's home.
"The night was spent without sleep, with symptoms of mild altitude sickness. On the morning of July 13, while descending from Punta Gnifeti, three members of the team climbed the peaks - Parot, Corno Nero, LudLudwigshohe and Balmenhorn. We owe our gratitude to the friends of the expedition - Luštica Buyu and Pivari. Especially to Luštica Buy for their understanding and selfless support", said Čelebić.
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Bonus video:
