On the eleventh kilometer from Ulcinj towards Vladimir, between Mala and Velika Gorana, Pelinku, Krut, Šaska planina, Brije field and Berdhela peak, the village of Klezna with about 65 households is tucked away. On the other side of the mountain, there is Lake Sasko, on whose slopes is the famous Old Town of Svač.
And like other Ulcinj villages, Klezna, which consists of Gornja Klezna (Kllezna nalte) and Donja Klezna (Kllezna e Poshtme), naturally separated by the Međureč stream, is a picturesque area of unreal beauty, hidden from view from the new main road that winds from Ulcinj to Vladimir and further to Sukobin.
At the turn for Donja Klezna, a narrow bridge was built after which the asphalt road forks - one leads to the village, the other to Vladimir. And there, right next to that bridge, built in 1954, when the old road towards the Anamal region, begins one of the ancient stories of Ulcinj.
Completely invisible from the road, in the shadow of the bridge, a few meters downstream, there is a bridge built of hewn stone, a witness of vanished times. It is much smaller than the bridge that overshadows it, but also much older. It is a true masterpiece that has survived all wars and disasters and that even today, after more than three centuries, defiantly treads the stream bed.
Local Enver Reja says that the bridge was built in 1696 by a craftsman from Dibra from northern Macedonia. His grave is located on the property Bećira Reže, on the corner of the street, near the mosque in Gornja Klezna.
"At that time, that bridge was the only link that connected Ulcinj with Klezno, but also with the Anamal region and Krajina. He is a unique, centuries-old testimony of that time", says Redža in an interview with "Vijesti".
CULTURAL-HISTORICAL VALUES
The old stone bridge was included in the 2016 Study of the Administration for the Protection of Cultural Properties (UZKD) in the category "Objects that are reasonably assumed to have cultural values". It is not visible from the main road, and is located just below the new bridge built in 1954, which overhangs it by a few meters. One part is overgrown with grass, but it can be seen that it has been preserved, although it no longer serves a purpose.
In the UZKD study, in the item description of the property, it is written that the remains of the road route and the stone bridge originate from the period of Ottoman domination.
"It is possible that the route coincided with the medieval Ulcinj-Vladimir road. According to legend, the bridge was built in 1696 by an old craftsman from Dibro, whose grave is still in the field near the Klezna mosque. "According to the story, it was the only bridge that connected Ulcinj with Klezna, but also with the villages of Anamal and Krajina," the study says.
The bridge is 12 meters long, 3,60 meters wide and 9,26 meters high from the water level of the river, and the thickness of the stone slabs is about 80 centimeters.
With the construction of the Ulcinj - Krute road in 1954, a new one was built near that bridge, which is in use.
The study adds "that the bridge is overgrown with vegetation, but it is visible and accessible and has a high degree of preservation".
"Visual prospecting indicates architectural, aesthetic and ambient values. Conduct conservation research and the process of valorization of cultural values," the study says.
MURDER OF THE MASTER
Redža says that the interesting story about the construction of the bridge has been passed down from generation to generation in the village for centuries.
"It is said that the craftsman who built this bridge was a craftsman from Dibra in northern Macedonia. The locals themselves offered him the job, and he told them that the lime, which will be used for construction, must stay in the pits for at least 15 years. After that time, craftsmen from Dibra and another worker started building this bridge. After the completion of the work, the craftsman was killed and buried near Klezna, where the grave was placed. The story goes on to say that he was killed by his former employee out of base motives," says Reža.
He points out that that bridge was used by the residents of Klezna, but also by everyone else who went from that side to Ulcinj and further and vice versa.
"In 1982, after removing the stones, water pipes were installed on the bridge, creating a certain channel. But, fortunately, the bridge did not suffer major damage, although something like that could have happened. However, if there had been appropriate treatment of cultural monuments in Montenegro, something like this would not have happened," Redža points out.
The reconstruction of the bridge was done in 2020.
"However, the bridge remained unfinished and what worries us is that when the workers removed the top layer, the bridge could be damaged and destroyed over time. That is why I appeal to the relevant institutions not to needlessly lose this archaeological gem, which has survived for centuries, and now we are damaging it with our own hands. That would be unforgivable," says Reža.
MOSQUE, CHURCH AND EXCELLENT WATER
However, Klezna in the UZKD study is not only recognized by the old bridge. The mosque in Gornja Klezna and the Church of St. John the Baptist in Donja Klezna are classified in the "Registered objects" category. The medieval road on the Klezne hill and the remains of the castle fortification in Gorna Klezna are listed as potential archaeological sites.
The Study points out that according to tradition, the construction of the original mosque is connected to the construction of the bridge in Gornja Klezna and that it dates back to 1696.
"In the courtyard of the mosque, along with new graves, older ones were also found. The mosque was reconstructed in 1966. After the 1979 earthquake in which it was destroyed, a new one was built on the foundations of the old one. On site inspection, it was established that the most recent reconstruction, which was supported by the Tika agency, was carried out in 2013. There are no recorded remains of the old one," the Study writes, noting that the mosque is well preserved.
Regarding the Church of St. John the Baptist in Donja Klezna, the Study states that, according to some data, there was an older church at that location. It is emphasized that the church is relatively well preserved, but aluminum locks are evident on the windows.
"In the documentation of the Administration for the Protection of Cultural Property, there is a project for the reconstruction of the Church of St. John the Baptist, which was not implemented," the Study writes.
Redža says that in Gornja Klezna there was also the Church of St. Prendes.
"It was a burial church and it was called the blessed place of graves. Even it was razed to the ground in the earthquake of 1979, but with the financial resources of the locals, the diaspora and our people from the city, a new Church of Šen Prena was built", says Redža.
In addition to historical sights, Klezna is also known for its exceptional quality spring water.
"Yes, that's right, we get water from Mid, one of the best in Ulcinj," says Reža.
Next to the main road, in Klezna there is a fountain from which this water flows.
Crowds are very frequent and it is almost impossible to get there, especially in high season.
And Old Shetterhand reached the village
In the immediate vicinity of the turn for Donja Klezna, there is a unique canyon, which in 1964 was the inspiration for the directors to shoot the expensive film "Old Šeterhend". In the popular film, which received the "Golden Screen" award, there are also great shots from that Ulcinj canyon.
The film was directed by Hugo Fregonese, and is based on the motifs of Karl Maj's popular novels.
Actor Lex Berker in the film is a German immigrant to the West, a white friend and blood brother of Vinetu, chief of the Apache Indian tribe.
Harmonious coexistence, great opportunities for tourism development
Klezna is a village that belongs to the Local Community of Krute. It is inhabited by the Albanian population, of the Islamic and Catholic faiths.
"The village lives a real life, harmoniously and without any problems. An example for everyone," says Reža.
He points out that there are currently around 65 households in the village.
"Without the diaspora and those who moved to the city," says Reža, stating that in 1934 that number was twice as large.
That village, as he says, has three names in archival documents and history - Kalezina, Kelezena and Klezna.
"Also, the elders claim that this small settlement was once called Bria, and the toponyms Mali Bris, Fusha e Bris, Mullir i Bris and Kroni i Bris are also used," points out Redža.
Although a small village, Klezna also gave birth to some big names from all walks of life - the translator of the integral Bible into the Albanian language, Dom Simon Filipaj, the archbishop of Tirana - Durrës, Dom Rrok Mirdit, professor and prominent political official of DUA, Bajram Rexu, historian Riz Rexu...
"We are small, but we have great opportunities for the development of agrotourism and mountain tourism. It just takes good will for someone to recognize it," says Redža.
Bonus video:
