Montenegrin mountaineers Boris Celebic i Ćazim Fetahović in three days, in separate expeditions, they successfully climbed Island Peak, a 6.189-meter high peak in the Himalayas.
Čelebić, a member of the Mountaineering Club "Komovi" from Podgorica, climbed Island Peak on the first day of November, while Fetahović, a member of the Mountaineering Club "Jelenčica" from Rožaj, was on Island Peak two days later.
Celebić went to the Himalayas with the Extreme Summit Team from Serbia, while Fetahović is part of the Montenegrin "Island Peak Expedition 2024", in which the 26-year-old Dino Mulamekic, from the Mountaineering Club "Očnjak", from Gusinje. Due to health reasons, Mulamekić, after successfully climbing two Himalayan peaks over 5.000 meters, did not continue the climb to Island Peak.
"The dream of every mountaineer is to feel the spirit and energy of the Himalayas," Fetahović told "Vijesti", for whom this is not his first international expedition or campaign.
A member of the Rozaj club "Jelenčica" previously climbed Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe, at 5.642 meters, and Daramand, the highest peak in Iran, whose height is 5.609 meters. Behind it are the peaks of Ararat (5.137, Turkey), the highest peak of Western Europe Mont Blanc (4.810), Brighthorn (4.160, Switzerland), Gran Paradiso (4.061, Italy), Grossglockner (Austria, 3.798), several peaks in the Dolomites, among which and the highest Marmolada, whose height is 3.343 meters, Pic Boe (3.152), Monte Paterno (2.744), the highest peak of Bulgaria and the Balkan Peninsula, Musala (2.925), Olympus, Triglav...
He adds that everything he has experienced so far cannot be compared to the experience of climbing the Himalayas.
“The Himalayas are something special! I was enchanted by the Sherpa people who live at those heights! They are specially genetically predisposed to be able to live at these altitudes. Without them, expeditions to the highest peaks of the Himalayas are not possible," he says.
Fetahović climbed Island Peak (Imja Tse) in the morning of November 3.
"On the third of November at nine hours and four minutes Nepali time, the Montenegrin flag flew high on Island Peak, 6.186 meters, one of the most popular and challenging peaks of the Himalayas," he said, adding that the ascent was made from the altitude camp at 5.600 meters. where Fetahović arrived the day before.
Before the final ascent of Island Peak, Fetahović and Mulamekić climbed two more Himalayan peaks above 5.000 meters, Nankartshang Peak at 5.083 meters and Kala Phatar, whose height is 5.545 meters.
For 26-year-old Dino Mulamekić, this is the first expedition outside of Europe.
"The Himalayas, one would say, like any mountain range, but they are not, this one is magnificent! Our expedition was modest, two members, Ćazim and I, several peaks in the plan... I am especially proud of my friend Ćazim who managed to achieve everything we are here for. "Unfortunately, I had to return because of the cold that caught me during the expedition and after consultation with the doctor," he said.
He adds that this is a huge experience for him.
"It's also a nice feeling when a mountain shakes you at a height of over 5.300 meters, so you feel what you didn't before, which are the symptoms of altitude. That's why we like to go up there, that feeling of how small we are, is actually a big feeling. I can hardly compare this kind of experience with my 26 years with anything, for me this is the first expedition outside of Europe and the highest point I have stood on, the Kalaphatar peak, at 5.644 meters," Mulamekić told "Vijesti".
He is grateful to Fetahović for supporting him as a younger mountaineer to be part of the expedition:
"With experienced friends, who have been mountaineers for decades, organize high mountain expeditions, it is much easier to overcome everything, learn and achieve what we are here for. I am grateful to friends who selflessly share inputs and everything needed for such heights and mountains to the younger ones. I am proud of my friend, who carried the flag of our country to the top of 6.196 meters".
The highest peak in the world, Mount Everest, is located in the Himalayas. On May 8.848, 23, a Montenegrin mountaineering expedition climbed to that peak, at 2010 meters. The people of Nikšić were in that expedition Marko Blečić, Đorđije Vujičić i Dragutin Šlagi Vujačić, from the Mountaineering and Sports Club "Javorak". That sporting feat of theirs registered Montenegro as the 65th country in the world whose flag was raised on the "roof of the world".
Two years before that, on October 4, 2008, the then president of the Mountaineering Association of Montenegro Dragan Bulatović, and his club mate from PK "Visokogorci", deceased Milan Radovic, they climbed the 8.163-meter high Himalayan peak Manaslu.
They climbed Island Peak from Montenegro earlier Semir Kardovic from Rožaj (2012), Biljana Medenica from Podgorica (2017)... A man from Nikšić also successfully climbed that peak of the Himalayas last year Nikola Cvorovic, a woman from Mojkov Ana Medojević, from Žabljak Branko Tomic and Kolašinac Branko Zivkovic.
Island Peak was the first to be climbed in 1953 by members of a British expedition, during preparations for the first ascent of Mount Everest. One of the team members, Eric Shipton, named that peak "Island Peak" in 1952, and the name "Imja Tse" was given to the peak almost three decades later, in 1983. The peak is surrounded by giants Lhotse (8.501 m) and Nuptse (7.861 m ), while from the top you can see two more heights over 8.000 meters, Cho-Oyu (8.201 m) and Makalu (8.463 m).
Island Peak was the first to be climbed in 1953 by members of a British expedition, during preparations for the first ascent of Mount Everest. One of the team members, Eric Shipton, named the peak "Island Peak" in 1952, and the name "Imja Tse" was given to the peak almost three decades later, in 1983.
Bonus video:
