In the canopy of the Kolašina settlement of Gornje Lipovo, surrounded by the peaks of Sinjajevina and untouched natural resources, the Dulović family produces cheese and dairy products for which they are known throughout Montenegro.
There is almost no resident of Kolašin who does not know about the rural household "Klisura", and about the mountaineer and the housekeeper Nataša Dulović only words of praise can be heard.
Several journalist teams who were guests at the Dulović residence at the beginning of the week were convinced that the good reputation of her sheet cheese is not a myth.
"I'm mostly on Sinjajevina, and I come down from the mountain when necessary. We have only been in this business for two years. It's going well for us so far...", said Dulović to curious reporters.
A process that takes a long time
After the toast and the polite exchange of words, Dulović proudly showed a tub of sheet cheese, but the journalists, however, did not witness the process of its creation.
They were not allowed to enter the "secret" rooms where the "magic" takes place. Not because of the whim of the hostess, but because of custom, and the press teams were not even adequately dressed for the occasion.
For the process of making sheet cheese, for which she is widely known, Dulović says that "it is not a particularly special story".
"The night and morning varenika are put together. It's a nightmare to remove the cream, and in the morning the whole varenika is added to make a flaky cheese," he describes the process.
He emphasizes that gauze is not added, but goes directly to "wrapping".
“And it's a whole process that takes a very long time. You have to be present all the time, from folding into molds and scrolling until you sell the cheese", she told the "Vijesti" reporter.
Young sheet cheese, she claims, works best for her, and that she almost never waits for a customer.
“He sells very well. And it works for us. Therefore, it never stands and waits for a customer. The most frequent customers are passers-by, and this cheese sells well on the coast, as well as in Podgorica. In addition, we also sell it to markets and hotels," Dulović pointed out.
Dairy products are the main source of income
In 2019, Kolašin sheet cheese joined the list of Montenegrin products protected by the quality mark at the national level. It is produced on more than 100 agricultural farms in the region by production, and about two thousand tons are sold annually.
This, as Dulović pointed out, had a positive effect on the sale of cheese.
"Anyone who comes asks me if I sell leafy Kolašin cheese. That cheese also won an award. It is also rare that people in other cities make such cheese. Mostly people from Kolasin make it," she said.
Dairy products are her main source of income for now, she pointed out.
"I don't even have time for other products. I have piglets, so I produce prosciutto. We find three or four pigs and sell them. Let's keep the rest to ourselves. Life in the countryside is very difficult. Now it is easier than before, because we have machines - a baler, a lawnmower, a plasticizer, tractors and everything else that is needed...", said Dulović.
According to her, the organization of the Ministry of Agriculture for the countryside is "perfect".
"They help us with milk and cows. Basically, we have no complaints about it. I am satisfied", Dulović pointed out, adding that "he who asks for help usually gets it".
Difficult beginnings, now it's going like clockwork
Nataša's daughter-in-law also confirmed that life in the countryside is not easy. Jelena Jeknic who, as she said, helps her with household chores. She reminds that the Dulovićs have been engaged in the tourist business for two years, which, she believes, is very profitable.
"The people of Dulović started to deal with tourism, because they produce cheese and cream, and it really pays off for them. It's very nice with them, and they like to do it. All in all, it's very nice," said Jeknić.
She emphasized that the working day in the countryside is very difficult, and it is the hardest for Nataša "because she carries the most burden".
"Natasha has to work with cattle and pack cheese. It sells a lot to markets and restaurants. I have to say that before it was much more difficult. It's easier now, because they have a lot of machines to help," Jeknić told "Vijesta".
According to her, the touristic beginnings of the Dulović family, despite numerous adversities, "started very nicely".
"The beginnings were more difficult, because their business was very slow. Now they have expanded a lot, and since last year they have started working with many agencies. They are recommended by customers and numerous visitors. The Dulovics really work hard on everything. Ask the people in the center of Kolašin, they will tell you the best. Many residents of Lipovo will also recommend them," Jeknić pointed out.
She also added that the village has a future, and believes that "a lot of young people will give back to the village and village affairs".
"It used to be worse. A lot of people left the villages, but now they are coming back. They can also make money, and that's why they return to their villages," concluded Jeknić.
Without "city specialties"
Planinka Dulović believes that healthy and homemade food are the only ones that make the difference between traditional and modern lifestyles in the right way.
"Homemade cheese, prosciutto, sausage, cream, veal and lamb. All this makes the former home-made lunches. This is the essence of ancient tradition. There are no such city specialties," said Dulović.
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