Meeting a friend 14 years ago who Rajko Popovic and his sons Dejana i A wolf then introduced to the world of mountaineering, was recently crowned by the ascent of one of the most notorious mountaineering destinations, the North Face of the Eiger, a 1.800-meter sheer rock face in the Bernese Alps, by a father and older son.
"This is the crowning glory of our mountaineering career, this most famous route in the world is dreamed of by many mountaineers around the world, just like we did eight years ago, when we were not up to this challenge and had two attempts. By far the greatest success of Montenegrin mountaineering," they announced on March 7 on the Facebook page of the club "Slobodni penjači Cetinje - Alpinistički klub".
In an interview for "Vijesti", Rajko Popović talks about the "Ajger" expedition, other expeditions, but also the beginnings of the "Free Climbers", Montenegro's potential when it comes to mountaineering, and the state's attitude towards this mountaineering discipline, which does not have the status of a sport in Montenegro.
"Montenegro's potential for mountaineering is so great that we can be leaders in the region, in terms of results we currently are, except for Croatia," says the interviewee, adding that Montenegro can also have a leading position thanks to the configuration of the terrain, the proximity of access to rocks...
"But, institutionally, in terms of personnel, in terms of the number of trainee alpinists, with the title of alpinist, alpinist instructors, and in terms of promoting alpinism, we are last."
MEETING AT THE DENTIST
The Popovićs have been practically writing the history of Montenegrin mountaineering for 14 years, they have examined more than 30 caves in the municipality of Cetinje, and last year, in the village of Kosijeri near Cetinje, where they examined Matan's Cave, Rajko says, they also debunked a three-century-old myth (slobodnipenjaci.com/matanova-jama)...
To all this, sometimes their friends, out of pity, tell them "you're not normal."
Their story began by chance, about 14 years ago, while Rajko was at the dentist, his friend. Duško Bjegović.
"He told me about his mountaineering experience on Bobotov Kuk. I wanted to go with my sons to the peak, which was then officially the highest peak in Montenegro. That adventure is where it all started. It's just that we soon moved from mountaineering to mountaineering activities, which were much more attractive and challenging for us, something that arouses greater excitement and adrenaline."
Not long after, which was the biggest turning point for them, they made their own climbing harness, which first Rajko, then Dejan and Vuk, who were 14 and 12 years old at the time, used to descend from the attic of their house.
"Dejan downloaded a sketch of a climbing harness from the internet, and I provided him with material from a harness from an older car. Dejan sewed the harness by hand, and I was the first to test it down the 12-meter-high ledge from the house. Our anchor point was the punching bag holder in the gym, in the attic. Through the gym window to the basement windows, it was exciting to jump over the window panes of the four levels of the house. Dejan descended immediately after me, and then my younger son Vuk, to the astonishment of my father, who lives on the ground floor of the family home, when he saw his grandchildren through the living room window descending like spiders down the house," says Rajko, adding that the excitement they experienced at the time, the happiness they felt when they safely descended to the ground, was also a sure sign that they would continue to engage in these activities in the future.
Even though they were just children, it wasn't difficult to encourage Dejan and Vuk to participate in similar activities with their father.
"After rappelling, there were more and more reasons to go into nature, explore the hidden corners of Lovćen, descend into caves, climb rocks, camp, and do various activities in the mountains in all seasons," says their father.
Everything they experienced through activities in nature motivated them for everything else in their lives.
"Activities on the mountain and in nature were different in all seasons: mountaineering, sport climbing, caving, snowboarding down the peaks... And my socializing with my sons has been intense since their birth, through sports and various hobbies."
EXPEDITION AJGER
Before their recent successful climb of Ajger, the Popovićs attempted the same in 2017 and 2018.
"At the end of 2016, after climbing the Matterhorn via the Lion Route, Dejan suggested that the next one should be the Eiger, but not via the ridge, but via the north face. It was a crazy idea at the time, after only less than three years in mountaineering," says Rajko, adding that they didn't know at the time that it also meant jumping eight steps.
"We had crazy courage, but not endurance, technique, knowledge, resistance to cold, the technique of climbing a vertical rock face in ice and snow, sleeping in a bag under the open sky in extreme conditions, perseverance, a strategy to put it all together. And that's why in 2017 we gave up after 500 meters, and in 2018 after 700 meters, with a huge risk of getting killed in an avalanche in June, when the north face is not climbed, and we wanted to avoid the cold," he says, adding that giving up was certainly not an option.
"We are now aware of how much of a feat this is and how much the North Face is valued by climbers around the world, because its ED2 rating says it all."
Rajko and Dejan climbed the north side of Ajger, in the Hekmajer-Harer direction, using traditional mountaineering techniques.
"Using traditional mountaineering techniques, we climbed the so-called 'last problem of the Alps', the north face of the Eiger, 3.970 meters, in the Hekmajer-Harer direction, a vertical 'wall' 1.800 meters high, ED2, V+, M6, WI5, 24 hours, March 5th and 6th. We made the descent today via the west side. However, at 3.640 meters, we spent another cold night in bags under clear skies, 60 hours of action. And this in winter conditions at an air temperature of -17°C. With a camp in the rock, on a small ledge where two people can barely squeeze together, above a 1.500-meter abyss. During the two days of climbing and the third day of descending via the west side, there was no one on the Eiger except the two of us," they announced on March 7th.
Rajko says that the north face of Ajger, as well as the north face of Grand Žoras, which they climbed last year, are the greatest success of Montenegrin alpinism, and even of some of the surrounding countries.
"As confirmed by older mountaineers from the region and the Montenegrin Mountaineering Commission, of which I am a member, and therefore the crowning glory of our career."
PREPARATIONS ON THE CURSES
For previous expeditions, the Popovićs, they say, prepared spontaneously. Preparations for Aiger, however, are different.
"All our preparations in previous expeditions were spontaneous, because we are active in various activities throughout the year, but preparations for the north face of Eiger are something else entirely. The preparations were very intensive and demanding, mostly in the Prokletije mountains, in extreme winter conditions. We stayed in the Prokletije massif four times for three to four days, sleeping in a tent," says Rajko.
During that time, as he said, they made four pioneering climbs: the first route to the peak of Maja e Čokistes, they were the first to climb that peak in winter; then they were the first to repeat two routes in Karanfili and the first to climb the western and southwestern sides of Karanfili. They were also the first to climb the winter mountaineering route on the peak of Zastanit and thus, says Rajko, with the preparations, they wrote the history of mountaineering on Prokletije, as in previous years, "and thus of Montenegrin mountaineering".
Mountaineering trips two to three times a month, carrying up to 30 kilograms of cargo, were real mini expeditions.
"What would you have said on the phone the other day?" Peter Podgornik, the legendary Slovenian alpinist, who was the first to climb one of the routes in the summer, and we repeated it in the winter, that every trip to Prokletije is a mini expedition for us, because we carry up to 30 kilograms on us, approaching the rock. All of this strengthened us physically”.
Technically, they were strengthened by choosing the most difficult routes, so that nothing could surprise them on the north face of Eiger.
"We had very extreme conditions while climbing two routes in Prokletije, where we were constantly showered with fine sugar-like snow down the verticals, while we climbed for hours with frozen fingers and sometimes toes."
Mentally, they were strengthened by everything together, as well as by spending so many days in the Prokletije massif, so much so that, says Rajko, they felt better there than they used to in the city, regardless of the extreme conditions.
As for logistics, adds the "Vijesti" interlocutor, it is something that Ajger has been following for years.
"One of the most important factors is to follow the weather forecast, I usually do it based on the weather conditions of the previous two years. The danger of landslides on the north face of the Eiger is high. That's why we decided to climb in the winter. It will be colder, but we won't be exposed to a cannonade of rocks, as happened to us in June 2018. Another important logistical factor is not to think about where we are going during the trip, because too much thinking, worrying, and fear 'burns' energy and can easily lead to demoralization for such an undertaking, which is fraught with many dangers," he says, adding that his wife is responsible for keeping the energy up. Tamara, Dejan and Vuk's mother.
CHALLENGES, JOY, RELIEF
The climb to the north face of Eiger was not without challenges.
"The only dramatic moment during the climb was when Dejan, after 700 meters of vertical, started vomiting and losing strength from climbing too fast. I warned him to climb more slowly, that we had enough time and to drink fluids, get some food into his body. All of that cost him his condition. At that moment, I took over the belay, while Dejan, exhausted with even worse symptoms, barely made any progress. After five meters of vertical climbing, he would lean against snow, ice or rock, trying to recover. All that, until we reached 1.000 meters of vertical. After sleeping the night on the shelf, he was in better condition the next day and nothing threatened our reaching the summit."
At the top, after 14 hours of vertical climbing, they were exhausted, there was no euphoria, but, says Rajko, they were certainly joyful and relieved of worries about their safety.
"From the summit we had to descend 1.700 meters on the west side. After a few abseils down the rope, it was getting dark. At 3.640 meters we slept outdoors in bags, in a temperature of -17 degrees. As soon as we lay down, the wind started, 30 kilometers per hour, fortunately, it stopped blowing after midnight...".
The climb to the north side of the Ajger for the Popovićs was another level of achievement and confirmation of what they really can do.
FAMILY AND TRUST
Rajko and Dejan dedicated their climb to the Eiger Bodin, Vuk's son, whose birth caught them in Slovenia, on their way to Switzerland.
"A particularly sweet moment, my dearest! We were in a bit of an awkward situation, as it all happened while we were on the road... Daughter-in-law Andjela "She entered the hospital the same evening when we were already in Slovenia, and that evening she gave birth to a beautiful baby boy whom they named Bodin. Although we missed those first days, as well as the celebration of the birth of my grandson Bodin, everything turned out perfectly in the end. So we dedicate this mountaineering success to him."
For the Popovićs, mutual support from each family member is very important.
"And the trust we have. My wife has gained trust in me during all this time that we will not go or rush into something that we do not assess well. She has also been active with us in some actions and activities in nature for three years. She even passed the mountain guide exam, and is in the final stages of becoming a licensed mountain guide. Vuk, my younger son, has been less active in the mountains due to his obligations in the last year, but he was with us in his thoughts at all times, regardless of the fact that he was in Cetinje and we were on Eiger."
VUK, THE YOUNGEST CLIMBER ON THE MATTERHORN FROM ITALY
Before the Eiger, the Popovićs had already tried their hand at Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn outside of Montenegro, as well as Monch, Grosslockner, Weisshorn, the Three Peaks of Lavaredo, Grand Juraes... For Rajko, the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion Ridge was specially broadcast, which they completed after less than three years of mountaineering.
"My younger son Vuk was 16 years old at the time and became the youngest climber in the world to climb the Matterhorn from Italy. That's when I felt the most emotions, because I single out that climb as special with so little experience, and my sons were still minors."
Expeditions are also accompanied by anecdotes:
"On the penultimate expedition to the north face of Grand Zoras, I forgot my helmet on such a demanding route. About halfway through, we overtook a Scottish climber, one of the two notices that I don't have a helmet, I see him looking at me strangely, to which I say: 'Crazy Montenegrin' (crazy Montenegrin, ed. new), and he replies, so as not to offend me, guided by Western culture: 'No! Strong man!' (No, strong man). A roar of laughter begins that echoes along the face of Grand Zoras."
DESERVES BETTER TREATMENT BY INSTITUTIONS
When they started mountaineering, says Rajko, he thought there were a thousand mountaineers in Montenegro.
"How many of them 'worried' about our self-taught beginnings. Now I know very well that there are maybe a dozen of them who are engaged in true alpinism, which is climbing using traditional alpinist techniques in dry and frozen rock, snow and ice," he says.
As he adds, Montenegro, or rather the Mountaineering Association (PSCG), did not have a Commission for Alpinism at the time, “and so it was understood that some mountaineering and high-altitude expeditions were alpinism.” Climbing to the top by walking cannot be considered alpinism, he explains.
Two years ago, the Mountaineering Commission was formed in the PSCG, the regulations and requirements for the title of mountaineer were adopted, and courses for taking the exam were scheduled.
"Even for mountaineering instructors, because there are currently only four of them in Montenegro," he says, adding that this is not enough for future young mountaineers who want to try their hand at climbing, and for it to be supported by schooling.
"And that they don't have to enter into these activities the way we entered into them."
And for licenses for guides and others, adds the "Vijesti" interlocutor, they have so far gone to countries in the region.
"Where the situation is at a much higher level in that regard, and yet, these two results that we achieved in the northern crags of Grand Jura and Eiger are far ahead of theirs," he said.
As he said, they had no support - neither from the Royal Capital Cetinje, nor from the PSCG, "and especially not from the Ministry of Sports".
"Which doesn't even recognize the mountaineering national team, as we voted at the last Mountaineering Congress to perform, as an unofficial national team, because mountaineering is not a competitive sport, while in neighboring countries it is."
Rajko Popović hopes that the past is a time when all activities - mountaineering, high mountaineering, canyoning, caving, sport climbing... had the same treatment.
"Now we strive for each activity to have its own committee, which will deal with its activities, training, and massing of future participants of any course, so that everything is transparent for anyone who expresses a desire to engage in any of the listed activities, and so that this is not the case as in the previous long period when certain people received certificates and titles of alpinists, and in alpinist cards they entered routes that could be climbed without equipment and awarded titles based on acquaintances, monopoly, and the like. I hope that that period is behind us and that better times are coming."
He says that Montenegro is "God-given" a country for the aforementioned activities.
"It's a shame not to have an army of young professional guides, instructors, mountaineers... This will further raise the awareness of the population to spend more time with nature, to promote it even more, and overall, we will all benefit as a community."
Illustrating how mountaineering and mountaineers are treated in other countries, he cites the example of the Serbian national team:
"It consists of four members, has its own sponsors, receives scholarships, receives bonuses for each route climbed and all other privileges. And it was formed specifically to climb three Alpine rocks: the Eiger, the Grand Jura and the Matterhorn, and they haven't climbed any of them yet."
As he said, mountaineering deserves a better place and treatment from Montenegrin institutions.
"It is a very noble sport: without an audience, a fight with oneself, without any special pomp, like in established sports, without too much money. In return, it sets an example for young people and keeps them on the right path, beyond today's vices that lurk around every corner. Today, we watch various team sports on small screens, how they advertise gambling, bookmakers, casinos at halftime... From the perspective of a mountaineer, I find it disgusting, they abuse sport, spontaneously lead young people to a great vice such as gambling. Even when I see a famous former athlete who, for the sake of some fee, directly advertises a certain bookmaker with some trite slogan..."
IT'S HARD TO GET EQUIPMENT, NOT AT ALL TO GET SPONSORS
They don't even get equipment easily.
"I order all the necessary certified equipment online, but lately, due to the limited amount of orders, we have to go to Croatia in person to get the ordered equipment," says Rajko, adding that a month ago they went to Split, to "Decathlon", to pick up a package from France, with special feather sleeping bags and Gorotex jackets and pants, "specially for the Ajger expedition."
As for sponsors for expeditions, they have only tried to raise funds once, four years ago, for a peak over 7.000 meters.
"We only raised 1.400 euros from sponsors, which was not enough for the four of us, who needed 10.000."
FREE IN MANY THINGS
When they're not on the rocks, the Popovićs do commercial canyoning - they lead tours through eight Montenegrin canyons from April to November. They've also been doing work at height for two years.
"Given that I have a lot of free time, we create life according to our own vision, living freely, as the club's name suggests, free in many ways. In addition to all the activities, I also have my own private business from which all of the above has been financed for years."
The Popovićs film their adventures and post them on the website slobodnipenjaci.com and on YouTube.
After the adventure in the village of Kosijeri, says Rajko, they are thinking of making a series called "Unraveling Speleological Myths Through Montenegro".
What the Popovićs don't talk about after Ajger:
"I never disclose that, I wouldn't even for the Eiger if it wasn't a representative expedition, as my colleagues from the Mountaineering Commission saw it, Djoko Vujicic i Ivan Laković", true mountaineers who have been honed by mountaineering into such noble people."
Conquered only in 1938.
The first serious ascent of the Eiger was made in 1935. At the time, it was actually a project that was supposed to unite the German nation. Bavarians Willi Beck, Kurt and Georg Luwinger gave up at 2.900 meters, a year later their compatriots, young alpinists Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer, reached 3.300 meters, where, unfortunately, they died due to a storm and avalanche. The place where they died is known as the “Bivouac of Death”. In 1936, when the Eiger claimed several lives, the Bavarians Andreas Hinterstosser and Toni Kurz set out to conquer the rock. The film “The North Face” (2008) was made about their endeavor. Hinterstosser and Kurz also perished, but they left behind the "Hinterstosser Traverse" section, over which, on July 24, 1938, a German-Austrian team consisting of Anderl Heckmayer, Ludwig Worg, Heinrich Harer, and Fritz Kašparek made the first successful ascent of the Eiger.
The route used by Rajko and Dejan Popović to climb the north side of Ajger was named after them, "Hekmajer-Harer".
Who records information about routes and climbers?
In Montenegro, Popovići most often climb rocks on Prokletije, Durmitor, Orjen, Lovćen, there is Pestingrad, Kučke planine...
"The most exposed rocks in Montenegro are by far Prokletije and we have written the most history of Montenegrin alpinism on them, especially in winter," he says, adding that this is because Prokletije was forbidden to access until the 1990s due to tensions between the SFRY and Albania, so they still have the opportunity to climb pioneering and championship routes today.
"Which is unthinkable in Western Europe, where everything has been climbed for a long time."
In addition to keeping records, Rajko also draws graphic sketches of directions, as well as on a photograph of the rock.
"The only one who still keeps records of routes climbed in Prokletije is Milovan Ljubojević, a mountaineer from Serbia and the author of a guidebook. No one from Montenegro keeps records, and who would keep records when mountaineering almost didn't exist, there was no commission, there was no website to at least register them, to enter the names of the first climbers into the records," he said.
To illustrate the situation, he recounts a misunderstanding with the Serbian national team during winter preparations, regarding a route on Prokletije, on Karanfili.
"They gave up on that route, we climbed it a few days later as the first in the winter. Someone had climbed the route in the summer, but it is not known which foreign climber, nor is the name or rating known. Until it is known, I have named it 'Sugar Snowfall'. I hope that we will bring this to a higher level through the Mountaineering Commission, so that everyone who has records of a route they have climbed can submit them, with supporting evidence in the form of photographs or videos. It will be listed on the website, but again, all of this is yet to be done in the future."
Bonus video:
