In Tbilisi, it can be seen at every step that the citizens of Georgia have neither forgotten nor forgiven Russia for keeping a good fifth of the territory of their country under occupation even 15 years after the war. "Russia is a terrorist state" is written as a large graffiti on one wall, and Ukrainian flags are also hung everywhere. Georgians express solidarity with Ukraine, because they themselves experienced the war with Russia.
But, in the politics of that country in the South Caucasus, there is no longer such a clear attitude towards Putin's aggression. Many Russians have fled to Georgia since they were drafted into the army, and the border crossing to Russia is full of trucks that bypass international sanctions through Georgia.
"Society is completely divided," says sociologist Iago Kačkashvišvil. "Most citizens want to join the EU, but many can hardly understand that there is a very long way to membership." Georgia has been waiting for candidate status for years.
Hospitality – to Russians too?
The division can also be seen in the country's political leadership: President Salome Zurabishvili keeps repeating that the rapprochement between Georgia and Russia is "unacceptable as long as it continues its aggression against Ukraine and keeps our territories under occupation." This position was supported by the American Embassy in Tbilisi and the European Union.
But Prime Minister and leader of the ruling Georgian Dream party, Irakli Garibashvili, is pragmatic. On the one hand, on Tuesday, on the occasion of the 15th anniversary of the outbreak of the Georgian-Russian war (August 8), he again requested the withdrawal of the Russian army from the Georgian provinces of South Ossetia and Abkhazia.
On the other hand, he advocates economic ties with a powerful neighbor. In May of this year, for the first time since 2019, direct flights between the two countries were reintroduced, and Moscow abolished visas for Georgian citizens.
Recently, a Russian cruise ship with tourists that arrived from Sochi docked in the Georgian port of Batumi. The opposition organized protests there because of this, to which Garibashvili accused the opposition parties of "increasing tension", and declared that "with a couple of tourists, it cannot be a question of a new invasion of Russia".
"If Russian tourists stop coming to Georgia, the country will lose one billion dollars a year," warned the prime minister. Finally, Georgia is known for its hospitality, natural beauty and excellent cuisine, and guests from neighboring countries contribute significantly to Georgia's income.
A puppet of the former prime minister and tycoon
But for the leader of the opposition "United National Movement" Levan Habeishvili, things are clear: this ruling group is just a puppet of the former Georgian Prime Minister and tycoon Bidzina Ivanishvili, who created a "Russian regime" in Georgia. And all the promises about prosperity in the country quickly backfire: the average salary is around 1.200 lari - some 400 euros. Officially, 13 percent are unemployed, but sociologist Kačkašvišvil estimates that the number is actually at least twice as high.
Russia is not important for Georgia only because of tourists: the neighbors are also well aware of Georgian wine, and a way is also found for goods that cannot be exported to that country due to sanctions to reach Russia via Georgia. Kachkashvishvil says that the Georgian government is theoretically still on the path to European integration, "but it is not doing anything for some kind of European course, but is becoming more and more pro-Russian." This government claims that Georgia "has nothing to learn from Europe".
"Nationalist trends are constantly highlighted, and the leadership constantly refers to our tradition and history, and our ancient civilization," says Kačkašvišvil.
It will, but it does nothing for the EU
Concretely, this means that Tbilisi is doing almost nothing to fulfill the catalog of reforms that are a condition for acquiring the status of a candidate for EU membership: from the area of human rights, all the way to the judiciary where the situation is worst. "Our judiciary is completely corrupt and serves only the interests of politics," says Kačkašvišvil.
Opposition politician Gig Bokeri, former head of the National Security Council of the currently arrested ex-President Saakashvili, is of the same opinion. "In our country today, the West is being demonized. The ruling party acts as if there is only one way out: be good with Russia or risk a new war." Bokeria, on the other hand, thinks like this: "There can be no agreement with Putin if we want to maintain our dignity as a country."
Namely, with the military support of Russia, the Georgian provinces of Abkhazia and South Ossetia achieved de facto independence from Georgia, and Georgia retained control only over small areas of the disputed territories. The Russian army actively participated in the short-lived war from August 8 to 12, 2008, and Tbilisi broke off diplomatic relations with Moscow.
Parliamentary elections will be held in Georgia next year and Bokeria is convinced: "It is a historic opportunity to turn to Europe, which for us is the only true civilization." If that doesn't change in the next election, it will be a disaster."
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