Many Christians come to Jerusalem before Easter, and some want to walk the Way of Tears carrying a larger cross, for the sake of compassion for Jesus and his sufferings. The crosses are rented out by a Muslim family who have been doing it for decades.
The Way of Tears, the Via Dolorosa, runs through the middle of the old city of Jerusalem. According to legend, Jesus walked this way from Pontius Pilate's palace to Golgotha, the place just outside the city gates - carrying the huge cross on which he was crucified. Good Friday, the day Jesus was crucified, is considered the saddest day in Christianity.
Some Christian pilgrims in the days before Good Friday want to go exactly that way - carrying a cross, in order to feel the suffering of Jesus even more authentically.
Grandpa's idea
There is probably no one who has carried as many crosses down the Trail of Tears as Mahmud Kanaan. There are about 50 crosses, some of which are more than 30 years old. Mahmoud is a Muslim and runs a small family business. His grandfather came up with the idea of renting crosses in 1967. years.
"We have crosses of different sizes," he says.
He holds the largest in second place.
"There are groups, for example from Korea, who want the biggest cross," says Mahmoud.
The crosses in his shop are half the size of that largest one.
"They carry crosses on their shoulders, they walk with them," he says.
The people who rent crosses from him are very different. Most often, these are pilgrims from Italy and Spain, but Poland, Ireland and the USA are also often represented.
"With some groups you can see them crying". Mahmoud also noticed them hugging the cross. Some sit on the ground and do not go any further. He sees that they are very affected."
He does not charge for renting the cross, but for photos
But the business is not doing as well as before, even if most of his crosses are rented in the Sunday before Easter. Mahmoud used to rent 20 crosses a day, but now it is sometimes only two.
And it's not an easy job: sometimes the groups come at half past seven or half past eight in the morning, but sometimes at five or four.
"It's pretty early. And sometimes I have to carry two, three or four crosses. Four crosses are very hard, it's exhausting. But if they're happy, I'm happy."
Strictly speaking, Mahmoud does not make money by renting out crosses, but as a photographer.
"They call me on the phone in advance and say: Mahmoud, we need a cross at five in the morning. 30, 40 or 50 people come. They tell me the time and then they want photos at each station of the cross. Three photos cost 10 dollars, and the cross is for free."
Mahmud holds his crosses halfway between the first station and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The Trail of Tears has 14 stations. When things are good, it will be a lot of photos.
This is a holy land for all
He says of his Christian clients: "They have their faith and come as pilgrims, just as we Muslims are pilgrims. This is a holy land, holy for everyone. I have respect for everyone and I help. I show them the way and try to remove obstacles. "
It is especially difficult every year on Good Friday. Because then in the Street of Tears there are also groups with crowns of thorns, artificial blood is used. And between all that: Mahmoud's crosses. He must have an overview of the situation and finally collect everything again and prepare it for the next group of pilgrims.
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