There are some places that I have visited many times, which I have always admired, but which I have never dared to tell a story about, fearing that I am not up to it. One such place is Perast, the most original place on our part of the Adriatic coast. After a long hesitation, I decided to convey my impression of this once powerful city, today occupied by tourists from all over the world.
Perast is one of our rare coastal cities (if not the only one) that managed to preserve its authenticity to a considerable extent (especially compared to the rest of the coast) and resist unplanned and excessive urbanization. Tourists have also discovered this, so the city is never without visitors at any time of the year. I have been in this town many times in passing or on purpose. In the beginning, there were many more buildings that needed to be renovated than there were already. Now that relationship, it seems to me, is more equal. Although, it is not an easy task. There were 18 churches and many palaces and other historical buildings in this area. Perast has a maritime history that none of our coastal towns can boast of. Historical data say that Perast had a shipyard for a long period from 1336 to 1813. I find that information fascinating. It also had a famous Naval School where even Russia sent its princes to be trained by Marko Martinović, a sailor, mathematician and, above all, pedagogue. Thanks to the famous sailors from Pera, the city had its greatest rise during the XNUMXth and XNUMXth centuries. Many buildings originate from that period. It is difficult for me not to jump from topic to topic while writing about Perast, so I would first tell the story of its islands.
The Montenegrin sea coast does not have many islands, and two of them are located right in front of Perast. Since I mostly visit the south of our country in the off-season, I had a problem finding a boat that would connect me to the island of Gospa od Škrpjela. Once I managed to do it, the church was closed due to the small number of visitors. A few years ago, however, you could always find someone to drive you there, and I don't know if the church is always open.
Gospa od Škrpjela is an artificial island. Legend has it that the island was created at the end of the 1803th century when the locals decided to build a church in the place where it is now located. At that time, there was only a small sprud (tick), so they threw stones every time they passed until there was space for building a church. The stones alone would not be enough if numerous sailing ships were not an integral part of the island, which would have been sunk in this place at the end of their sailing career to help form the island. A church with the same name as the island was built on the island. It was built and extended for almost a century, and today it is a kind of museum, and in a broader sense, a gallery. It was painted by Tripo Kokolja, a Baroque painter from Peraš. It takes a lot of time to visit everything, and it would be preferable to have a guide who would tell you incredible stories that accompany almost every exhibit in the church. The problem is that the space is not big, and there are a lot of visitors, so you can't stay as long as you'd like because you have to give up your place to others. On the side walls of the church, there are numerous silver plates that sailors or their relatives gave to the church before they set sail, hoping to protect Our Lady of Škrpjela. Also, those who would successfully complete the voyage brought tiles as a sign of gratitude that Our Lady had preserved them. Although the church is Catholic, sailors and their loved ones addressed Our Lady with prayers and thoughts, regardless of religion. In the church there are also archaeological collections, numerous paintings and interesting handicrafts. The greatest impression on me was the tapestry made of gold threads intertwined with the hair of the author, Peraštanka Jacinta Kunić, who, waiting for the return of her sailor husband, in the period from 1828 to XNUMX, embroidered this incredible work. The hair turned gray over time, the sailor did not return, and the embroiderer did not manage to finish the tapestry.
The attention of visitors is not only captured by the details placed in the church, but also those on it and around it. A small stone building opposite the church is called the Reconciliation Hall. Centuries ago, quarreling parties were reconciled in it. Right next to the church, on the western side, leaning against the church, there is a very striking and perhaps the most photographed detail: a stone table, the slab of which is held on the back by two colossi.
At a distance of about 115 meters from the island of Gospa od Škrpjela, there is another island from Pera, Sveti Đorđe. It is of natural origin. It is home to a Benedictine monastery from the XNUMXth century, as well as a local cemetery. Tourists do not have access to this island.
Perast is the most beautiful when seen from the sea. Then you can best see the numerous bell towers of churches and palaces, as well as the surrounding mountains, which significantly contribute to the beauty of the place itself.
Full of impressions from the church-museum-gallery, we left the island for a tour of the small town. Although, no matter how many times you visit it, it is never the same. In the meantime, something else is always renewed and changed. The first stop is a square not far from the coast where there are busts of the three most famous Peraštans: a sailor, a pedagogue and a painter. There are busts of Admiral Matija Zmajević, Marko Martinović and Tripo Kokolja. Contemporaries have rightly singled them out as those who, with their works, contributed the most to making Perast, thanks to its history, a small museum.
Walking through the streets of Pera in the background of the square was a real pleasure for me. I love this style of narrow streets lined with stone palaces. The only thing is that it is difficult to take a good photo (because everything is too close), and thus to illustrate what can be seen. Since not everything has been renovated yet, and the big question is when and if it will be, the tourist can get confused when he arrives in the yard of a private house. The hosts are probably used to it. Some kind of signaling would not be superfluous. In any case, if the road takes you to Perast, take a walk along the hill of Sveti Ilija, at the foot of which and on the slopes of which Perast was built.
Not taking into account the importance of landscape architecture in the background behind the island is a built-up settlement that greatly enhances one of the most beautiful views that can be seen from our part of the Adriatic coast: the view of the Perak Islands. While climbing the streets of Perast, another task for photographers is to avoid that neighborhood.
The custom of throwing stones to expand the island has been preserved to this day. Every year, on July 22, before sunset, a column of connected decorated boats carries stones to Our Lady of Škrpjela. This traditional custom, which, they say, has never been interrupted for about 500 years since it was created, is called Fashinada. It is interesting that even after so many years only men can be in the boats.
Many better connoisseurs of history and culture, both of Perast and its islands, will surely state that I failed to mention numerous details that are significant for this area. It was not my intention to present all these, I must admit, amazing data, but to encourage all those who have not yet met Perast and the island of Gospa od Škrpjela to do so as soon as they have the opportunity.
Bonus video:
